Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz, Merlot & Bordeaux-style blends, Australia
2018 Gold 2 Silver 7 Bronze 5 Commended 6
2017 Gold 3 Silver 6 Bronze 3 Commended 5
Australia’s performance with Cabernet, Merlot et al rarely hits the same kind of heights as its efforts with Shiraz, and that was especially true this year. Two Golds was on the ‘meh’ side of average.
There was, our tasters admitted, perhaps an element of them going into flights from Coonawarra and Margaret River with unrealistically elevated expectations, but wine styles that are really on their game deliver under that kind of pressure.
Strangely, there were fewer comments than over the past few years about the new ‘lighter’ style of wines. In fact, if anything, our tasters felt things were moving back in the ‘big ripe fruit’ direction, which was a bit surprising.
Of more concern, perhaps, is the apparent death of Cab/Shiraz as a category. Once a staple of wine lists and retailers’ shelves (and, indeed, this competition), its entry is now so diminished that we’ve rolled the few medals we got into this section. Is it really as 1980s as shoulder pads and big hair? Say it ain’t true…
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘They were pretty high-priced, starting at £10 or £11, which for a crowd-pleasing red style is quite high. And they often didn’t deliver quite as much as they should.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader
‘Coonawarra and Margaret River are distinct, and if you can accommodate them on a list it’s good to have both. If I had to choose I’d lean to Coonawarra, as they’re more interesting, with notes of eucalyptus and riper fruits.’ Mikolaj Harmider, Adam’s Restaurant
‘You can’t fault these for their sweetness and seduction, but not many left you thinking you’d like to drink a whole bottle.’ Andrés Ituarte, Coq d’Argent
‘I was impressed with the wines from Margaret River and Coonawarra – they were well priced and well made. You probably still have to educate customers on the differences between the two, but they both have all the boxes ticked to be on the market, with price justified by quality.’ Jurijs Nemkovs, Hakkasan Mayfair
‘We don’t list any [Australian Cabernet]; it’s too ripe, too overblown and I don’t want it to overpower my food, but for barbeque restaurants it’s more appropriate.’ Laurent Richet MS, team leader