New World: Carmenère
2018 Gold 3 Silver 4 Bronze 1 Commended 8
2017 Gold 4 Silver 3 Bronze 3 Commended 7
You could, it’s safe to say, describe Carmenère as ‘divisive’. Few of our tasters were on the fence about it – they either loved it or hated it – but even its non-fans could see a use for it, often in a gastropub or barbecue restaurant paired with mountains of red meat.
As a result, it’s developed into a solid section of the competition, with three or four places on the Gold List every year – often at a pleasing range of prices. And so it was again this year, our three Golds laddering nicely up from a shade over House Wine level through ‘mid-price trade-up’ to ‘show-off’.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘It’s probably the only grape variety I dislike. I find it too OTT – too much alcohol, fruit and structure. It’s like being hit by a train.’ Andrea Bricarello, team leader
‘In the pub it’s an important grape. Or in a steakhouse, it makes perfect sense. But in fine dining – not necessarily. Its varietal character is quite divisive.’ Matthieu Longuère MS, Le Cordon Bleu
‘I wouldn’t drink a second glass, but it will work fine if you’re having a barbecue and want a bit of punch, providing it’s well made. ’ Simone Fadda, Roka Aldwych
‘If you want a full wine list, you should have a bit of something from everywhere – and that includes Carmenere. It would be best with something gamey like venison or a fatty piece of beef.’ Stefano Barbarino, Chez Bruce
‘Nobody buys Carmenère, even when we tell the story. In a steakhouse, it’s a complementary wine.’ Daria Ershova, Ten Green Bottles
‘It’s one of my favourite grapes. Different styles, easy-drinking to food-friendly. All of them in terms of tannin and ripeness very well integrated. And great prices.’ Carlos Ferreira, The Don