New World: Malbec
2018 Gold 7 Silver 13 Bronze 12 Commended 11
2017 Gold 7 Silver 16 Bronze 16 Commended 20
Hold the front page: ‘Malbec in good fruit and customer popularity shock’ – it’s not exactly news is it? But take a look at our tasters’ comments below, and that’s the story from this year’s Sommelier Wine Awards.
Malbec did what it’s done regularly for the past three years: entered in big numbers, pleased our judges without ever really having them jump up and down with excitement, and tangoed its way off into the sunset with a hatful of medals.
Not that it’s absolutely as simple as that. Chile, for instance, gatecrashed the party with a few medals this year. Nobody quite knew what to make of the wines, but they generally liked them and were interested in the stylistic differences compared with their neighbours over the Andes.
The overall value for money is worthy of note, too: with three Golds under a tenner, three in the £10-£15 area and one over £20, this was a beautifully ‘laddered’ part of our list.
The only disappointment, perhaps, was the Uco Valley. The higher altitudes give slightly leafier wines with tighter tannins and when not managed correctly they can be a bit stringy and, well, un-Malbecy. And on that completely made-up word, we’ll move on to the next category.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘I was expecting tannins and a lot of fruit, and that was all there. And there were a lot of identifiably Argentine flavours – if I’d tasted them blind I’d be able to pick where they were from.’ Jade Koch, team leader
‘This was everything we expected from Argentinian Malbec, in that it was robust, and not subtle, but at certain points there were wines that had flashes of refinement and elegance.’ Martin Lam, team leader
‘I know if I put a more premium Malbec on my list no one is going to buy it, and if I have to put in that much effort, I’d rather have something like a Bonarda.’ Jacopo Mazzeo, The Pig Hotel
‘There was lots of big, bolshy fruit. They’re the sort of things I can sell to people, and it’s a well-known brand.’ Euan McColm, Beaverbrook
‘We don’t have any Malbec from Argentina, so I suggest Cahors to our customers. We’ve got about 10.’ Rémi Cousin, Le Gavroche
‘There was one really outstanding candidate in our flight. The rest were just Malbec. All very similar in style.’ Antóin UáRuairc, UK Midland Sommelier Ltd
‘At some point the Malbec bubble is going to burst, but there are back-up varieties that will take its place. Syrah, particularly from San Juan, and Cabernet Franc are coming up now.’ Harry Crowther, Grape Times UK
‘I wasn’t able to detect what characterises Chilean Malbec.’ Gabriele Galuppo, Theo Randall at the InterContinental