New World: Pinot Noir, New Zealand
2018 Gold 5 Silver 11 Bronze 5 Commended 15
2017 Gold 8 Silver 7 Bronze 5 Commended 19
If we assume that New Zealand’s stellar performance with Pinot last year (when the country doubled its normal Gold tally) was a blip that they were always going to struggle to repeat, then the Kiwis should be pretty happy with this performance.
Not only were there a solid number of Golds and an eye-catching bulge of Silvers to back them up, but all the key regions contributed: Central Otago and Marlborough chipped in with two places each on our Gold List, from £12 to £40, while Wairarapa (Canterbury) added an affordable wine at £10.
It made for a strong range of wines in a variety of styles at a good spread of prices – the ultimate proof of a healthy category.
If there was any criticism it’s a tendency for most (though not all) wineries to want to throw oak at their wines once they get over the £15 mark. It didn’t go down well with any of our tasters, who were looking for sensual and lissom rather than brazen and tarty.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘As you get more expensive they use more new oak and it hides the variety, it doesn’t need it. But at around £10-£13 they were really drinkable red wines.’ Alex Pitt, Typing Room
‘At the lower end, you’re getting elegant, approachable, fruit-driven styles. As you went higher up in price there was more intensity and complexity, less of that fruity style.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘At the higher end you’re competing with South Africa, Oregon, and some are getting a bit outdone there. There’s a push for concentration, but that can have a negative effect as well.’ Jonathan Kleeman, Four Degree
‘Outside Marlborough and Central Otago, there’s still a long way to go to identify within each region what their definitive character is. It’s still a very young industry.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘There was a breadth of Pinot styles, from savoury and classical to juicy and ripe, and we were quite divided on the wines.’ Hamish Anderson, Tate Catering
‘Some of the Central Otago winemakers know how to make wine but they don’t know when to stop. The wines that we awarded tended to be a bit gentler – fresh and lithe.’ Simon Woods, team leader