New World: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Bordeaux-style blends, Chile
2018 Gold 1 Silver 5 Bronze 4 Commended 9
2017 Gold 4 Silver 10 Bronze 6 Commended 9
Seriously? One Gold? Bordeaux Reds is meant to be Chile’s thing. What it does. Its raison d’être.
In the past, our tasters may have occasionally grumbled about a lack of ambition or too much ‘safe winemaking’, but they were, at least, not short of well-priced, solid, lower-half-of-the-wine-list offerings.
But this year was feeble across the board. A country that a couple of years ago picked up 40-odd medals/Commendeds managed half that, it’s usual haul of three or four Golds reduced to just one.
You could, perhaps, say that this has been a while coming. There’s been a noticeable cooling of affection towards Chile’s wines over the past four or five years and maybe this year our tasters had had enough.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘They weren’t expensive, but too tannic, too much acid, not very well made, not very nice to drink. I like a wine to be relaxed, these were all uptight and boxed-in, with no room for the fruit to express itself. No sense of Pablo Neruda – all Arnold Schwarzenegger in a teenager’s body. I still feel, 10 years on, that they are falling into the same trap.’ Nigel Lister, team leader
‘There’s an expectation from Chile to have big tannins and a bit of warmth, but not cooked fruit.’ Carlos Ferreira, The Don
‘I think Chile has moved forward at a premium level, but the winemaking needs to be updated at the lower price category. These were jammy – 20th century in style.’ Tatiana Mann, The Vine Eno Gastro Pub
‘We were so blown away by the Other Old World Reds category before this, which had similar price points to these. Chile needs to watch its back.’ Debbie Warner, Wild Wine Club
‘These are barbecue wines, right? They’re summertime, relaxing-with-friends wines. They definitely have their place in the right establishment.’ Richard Cavagin-Carey, The Harwood Arms
‘I don’t have any Chilean wines on the list. We just haven’t found they’re as approachable or as good with food as some of the other countries we’ve invested in.’ Sue Jones, The Harrow at Little Bedwyn