New World: Chardonnay, Australia
2018 Gold 5 Silver 7 Bronze 2 Commended 9
2017 Gold 5 Silver 7 Bronze 3 Commended 8
Seven or eight years ago we saw the first hints of the new leaner, more reductive style of Australian Chardonnay. Shortly after that, as with most body-shaping obsessives, some of them went too far, from lean to emaciated. But they’re in a far more balanced state now – mixing the high-intensity workouts with the odd biscuit and settling back into what seems to be a very good place.
The vast majority of our tasters very much enjoyed these wines – a winning combination of controlled, ripe fruit, minerally reduction and significantly better use of oak. The word ‘elegant’ came up over and over again.
Moreover, Australia seems able to do it time after time. The medal count has been consistently good for years, and it’s obvious that the Aussies are totally setting the pace with this style and this grape variety. If you had to pick a star region, Adelaide Hills (perhaps surprisingly) seems to be nosing slightly ahead of Margaret River.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘It’s amazing the change in direction that Australia has taken. Right the way through you see the direction and the drive. A lot were slightly reduced, but that’s a character that I really like in Chardonnay. The wine sings, the fruit sings. I’m very happy.’ Chris Delalonde MS, Bleeding Heart Group
‘I really liked the middle range. At that price the oak was well integrated with a good buttery character but nice fruit, too, and they finished fresh and mineral. The kind of guests we get at Chez Bruce are open to wines like this.’ Stefano Barbarino, Chez Bruce Restaurant
‘At the cheaper end, there was too much winery and not enough grapes, and at the higher prices they weren’t really giving enough.’ Euan McColm, Beaverbrooks
‘The focus wasn’t on sweet vanilla for once – it was structured oak, not overpowering oak. They had freshness, acidity and good winemaking.’ Laurent Richet MS, team leader