New World: Chardonnay, South Africa
2018 Gold 2 Silver 7 Bronze 1 Commended 4
2017 Gold 3 Silver 3 Bronze 3 Commended 10
If the Aussies have more or less settled on a new look for their Chardonnays, South Africa seems still to be at the trying-on-different-accessories-in-front-of-the-mirror stage. Certainly, we had a less consistent assessment of the wines on show from our tasters here than we did for Australia.
In general, it’s probably fair to say that the Cape’s wines are slightly richer and riper, and overall, as last year, they were pretty well received. Plus, there’s the advantage that the pricing can, at times, be extraordinarily good.
Talking of which, massive congratulations to Kleine Zalze and Journey’s End. Both of these wineries picked up Gold last year, so to follow it up again this year to take the country’s only two places on our 2018 Gold List was a superb achievement.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘A couple years ago we were saying how nice it was that South Africa was going to a mineral, crisper style of Chardonnay, but now they seem to have gone back to the big crème brûlée style.’ Charles Pashby-Taylor, consultant
‘Some were trying to copy Burgundy here, which, to be honest, they did quite a good job of. Others I enjoyed were the creamy, buttery style.’ Aurel Istrate, The Connaught
‘I think people are open to spending more on South Africa. I find a lot of people that want Chardonnay, but want something different, so they go for South Africa.’ Janusz Pawel Sasiadek, Bottles & Battles
‘South Africa is going for that Meursault-on-steroids style, but there’s a place for that. The best examples had nice minerality to balance out the woodiness. After Burgundy and California people aren’t so fussed where it’s from – so they need to justify their price. And these still offer really good value.’ Andrés Ituarte, Coq d’Argent
‘I was expecting some big Chardonnays but they didn’t show up. The oak was there but they maintained some leanness.’ Richard Cavagin-Carey, The Harwood Arms