New World: Chardonnay, USA
2018 Gold 2 Silver 5 Bronze 4 Commended 6
2017 Gold 2 Silver 3 Bronze 1 Commended 4
It’s tempting to think that sommeliers hate ripe, big-fruited wines. Tempting, but wrong. They’ve proved – over the past few years in particular – that they’re quite happy to reward these quintessentially Californian Chardonnays, provided they think they’re well made. Nothing wrong with big oak and big fruit, in other words, provided the wine as a whole is in balance.
So yes, they might be as polarising as a Donald Trump speech, and no, not all of our tasters are fans of them personally. But they can see a very definite use for them and if there are customers out there who like that style of wine, then you’d better make sure you have some good examples on your list.
Pricing, understandably, was high. But that wasn’t seen as a particular disadvantage for these wines; punters are often quite happy to pay the big bucks for the big wines.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘There was this backbone of freshness – they were good, and a nice range of styles – it’s no longer easy to pigeonhole them. But you have to pay your money – excitement came at the higher prices.’ Simon Woods, team leader
‘I wasn’t impressed. There was too much oak, it was overpowering, and not food-friendly.’ Daria Ershova, Ten Green Bottles
‘There were some really bad ones at the entry level, but as the flight went on, the quality steadily increased. I usually don’t like the sweetness and oak, but the flight was really good.’ Olivier Gasselin, Hakkasan
‘The sweetness is too high – I’m not a big fan.’ Gabriele Galuppo, Theo Randall at the InterContinental