NEW WORLD: Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand
2018 Gold 9 Silver 8 Bronze 9 Commended 14
2017 Gold 5 Silver 6 Bronze 10 Commended 15
It’s one of the cornerstones of your wine list, whether you’re a gastropub, bar or Michelin-starred restaurant. Kiwi Sav is a big name and does correspondingly big business. Sure, most of our tasters (or this book’s readers) wouldn’t often choose to drink it on their night off, but you can bet that your accountant likes it.
And on this evidence, perhaps we should all cut it a bit of slack. Even five years ago, we didn’t get a great deal of variety in the category. We were aware that interesting stuff was happening down in Marlborough – we’d heard the whisperings – but we weren’t getting a great deal of it lined up on our tasting tables.
So this year can be seen as a watershed. Not only did we get a broad spread of prices – from £7 to £18 stopping off at most price points in between, but we also got a range of styles. No longer, perhaps, can we blindly talk of ‘Marlborough Sauvignon’. Yes, there is that classic pungent beat-you-round-the-face style, but we also found zestier, fresher wines, ones with a bit of lees-induced texture and a growing number with really rather nicely judged oak use.
It made for a stimulating category with multiple uses – and one whose uses you might want to reconsider.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘I was impressed with the acidity here – soft, but present. They generally all felt really balanced, and they were just as good at the low end as the higher end.’ Jade Koch, team leader
‘There was a good range between ripe and not so ripe styles. There wasn’t as much pyrazine as I thought there’d be. I like when there’s a bit of the tropical fruit, but also some minerality.’ Joseph Lunn, Suave Wine
‘I’m looking for some of those Marlborough characteristics, but wrapped in a more elegant, dry style, and more on the citrus than the tropical fruit character. We’re starting to see well-oaked wines at the higher prices, and seeing more that are done really well.’ Charlie Young, Vinoteca
‘For a restaurant list, around the £7 to £10 price point was the sweet spot.’ Christoph Hons, Park Chinois
‘We put through one Gold that was oaked. It was really well made, but the tasting note on the wine list would need to reflect that it’s slightly atypical.’ Sam Caporn MW, team leader