FRANCE: White Burgundy
2018 Gold 6 Silver 4 Bronze 4 Commended 5
2017 Gold 8 Silver 9 Bronze 3 Commended 11
Curiously, while most of France provided our teams with the slimmest of pickings when it came to value for money, Burgundy was rather better. Yes. Really.
Obviously, there was nothing below £10, and yes, our cheapest was an Aligoté rather than a Chardonnay (our first ever Aligoté Gold). But still… prices here were no more outrageous than usual – and nobody was really expecting anything else, in any case.
Interestingly, taster after taster spoke about the growing necessity to search out lesser-known or less-fashionable villages or sub-regions, just to keep the wines under £100 on a list. Were they angry about this state of affairs? Not really. More resigned to the inevitable…
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Most wine suppliers are introducing Aligoté to replace Bourgogne Blanc as their entry-level white Burgundy since the price of Bourgogne Blanc is going up. There has always been Aligoté, but it’s had a bit of a bad reputation. They haven’t made the effort to make high quality wines from them – until now.’ Petri Pentikainen, Three Chimneys Restaurant
‘White Burgundy should be refreshing and approachable. Very food-friendly wines: rich and complex at premier and grand cru level. The south always gives good value, and prices are fairly stable here.’ Erik Simonics, La Dame de Pic at Four Seasons
‘We’re fighting for well-priced Burgundy. It’s difficult to have a Meursault under £120 these days. So we’re looking at a bit more unknown white Burgundy, from smaller appellations. And I tried to bring some customers a Marsanne from St Joseph or something like that, but they often just want the big names they know.’ Yohann Pinol, Wiltons
‘All our Golds were between low £20s and £30 – we found them refreshing, with good complexity and good value. At the moment Burgundy is exploding in terms of price, you should always be on the look-out for good value Burgundies.’ Sumita Sarma, Sumilier