FRANCE: Loire
2018 Gold 3 Silver 3 Bronze 6 Commended 9
2017 Gold 4 Silver 8 Bronze 3 Commended 8
That there’s a lot of warmth out there for the Loire among the sommelier community isn’t in question. Taster after taster told us how much they loved the place – the variety, the freshness, the typicité. Indeed, the only problem this year was the wines themselves. There were not that many of them (understandable, given the frost issues) and, more depressingly, they were not always that good. Particularly for the prices.
So with so few medals under £10, credit has to be given to Levin Wines for its very good, very cheap and interesting Gamay. A useful Beaujolais/Burgundy/Cab Franc substitute. But just the one Sauvignon Gold was an eloquent rebuke to the price quality we were seeing.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘There were different styles in Sancerre, some more classic, and some looking more toward New Zealand with the ripeness coming in. But both could work.’ Tom Forrest, team leader
‘I really like the Loire, the range of different styles, it’s beautiful. And the minerality supports the freshness of the wines.’ Eva Krenkova, Restaurant Sat Bains
‘The Loire is a personal favourite – it’s away from the really big names, and there are lots of different grapes, the winemakers can do what they want. There’s lots of scope within the confines of the appellation.’ Euan McColm, Beaverbrook
‘The Loire reds were fantastic: things that I’d be very happy to see at £80 on my wine list.’ Andrés Ituarte, Coq d’Argent