Italy: Chianti
2018 Gold 7 Silver 5 Bronze 2 Commended 7
2017 Gold 5 Silver 4 Bronze 3 Commended 9
We probably all need to rethink our attitude towards Chianti – and to get customers to rethink it, too. While there’s still plenty of cheap generic Chianti out there, not much of it is worth bothering with. We had only two Chianti medals – and an awful lot of wines were kicked out.
But when it came to Classicos – and particularly the Riservas and Gran Seleziones – it was a different story entirely, with wines of class and elegance. Prices may have gone up, but quality definitely went up with it and our tasters really appreciated the difference.
And while the Gran Seleziones tended to be above £20 – firmly in upper-end restaurant territory – there were still flashes of value to be found in the Riservas, not least the Uggiano, which, at less than £9 a bottle, was a stunningly good, textbook version of what Chianti can be about. Stepping up from Silver last year, it fully deserved its Food Match and Critics’ Choice awards.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Some of the Chianti Classicos were a bit tight, but the Gran Seleziones showed really nice elegance. Chianti is definitely back.’ Tom Forrest, team leader
‘We generally go for lighter, less tannic reds, but there was a good variety and expression of Sangiovese here. You definitely need to decant them to go with food.’ Alex Pitt, Typing Room
‘Not the most exciting flight of straight Chiantis, then with the Riservas came more oak influence but different styles as well: beautifully elegant and fresh styles, then much more modern, bold, oak-driven, riper styles. There’s a place for both.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘The younger, heavily oaked styles will need three or four hours of decanting. The quality on the Riservas was very good, they’ve massively improved in the past six years.’ Robert Mason, Cheese at Leadenhall