Italy: South - Red
2018 Gold 2 Silver 13 Bronze 3 Commended 12
2017 Gold 5 Silver 10 Bronze 2 Commended 11
According to our tasters, these wines were rustic or authentic, well-priced or too expensive, comforting or baked, simultaneously sought out and avoided by diners, and either great or totally unsuitable for food. It’s hard to think of a category that aroused more divided (and mutually contradictory) opinions!
What’s undeniably true, on this evidence, is that in the £10-£12 area there’s a lot of good wine, particularly if you like your bottles with plenty of chunky fruit and confident tannins. They’re the vinous equivalent of a slap on the back from a cheerful Neapolitan pizzeria owner: sincere, warm and lacking in artifice.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘This was one of the standout line-ups for me, with good quality across the board. These have gained a lot of popularity over the last few years, especially for gastropubs. They’re really food friendly, with richness, spiciness and fruit.’ Piers Gibson-Birch, Wernher Restaurant at Luton Hoo Hotel Golf & Spa
‘Some of the wines here were really over-extracted and heavily oaked, which is very much the style in the region, but I don’t think they’re necessarily good food wines, or wines that have any place in most restaurants.’ Andres Ituarte, Coq d’Argent
‘I’m a big fan of Puglia – I like the slight sweetness and jamminess and oak. All that is typical from the region, and I found well-made examples here. When a customer asks for a full-bodied wine with a sweet finish I bring something like these.’ Jurijs Nemkovs, Hakkasan Mayfair
‘They were all quite similar, and had a distinctive style, with ripe fruit and some sweetness, but that’s not something that people gravitate towards.’ Mikolaj Harmider, Adam’s Restaurant
‘There was a lot of oak here and, in spite of it being a warm region, there was a lot of greenness to the fruit.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader