Italy: Sicily & Sardinia - Red
2018 Gold 3 Silver 10 Bronze 10 Commended 20
2017 Gold 8 Silver 7 Bronze 2 Commended 12
We do it so that you don’t have to… We had a large number of entries from southern Italy this year – understandable, perhaps, given that it’s one of the few areas of Europe still able to produce sommelier-interesting wines for half-decent prices. But my God did our tasters have to work hard to get to these medal winners. Oddly, perhaps, the main criticism didn’t seem to be out-of-control alcohol, baked fruit or lashings of oak (all of which have been issues in the past), but rather, green drying tannins and a peculiar reticence of flavour. A lot of wines were removed in the first round of judging.
What we were left with, however – what you see on these pages – was good. Interesting, too – we had everything from wild-eyed Cannonaus from Sardinia to elegant light-touch Frappatos, mannered Etna Rossos and aristocratic Cabernets.
There is, in short, a lot of interesting wine here if you are in the mood for a bit of vinous exploration, and the Nero d’Avolas were probably some of the best wines for the price that we had in the whole of Italy this year.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘I stock a lot of these. People ask for Sicilian wines – fresh, vibrant with good minerality.’ Janusz Pawel Sasiadek, Bottles & Battles
‘They weren’t what I was expecting. High in alcohol, grippy tannins… and a lack of fruit. Some were fairly priced for gastropubs, steak houses.’ Aurel Istrate, The Connaught
‘Last year this flight was a bit bretty and volatile, but they had better fruit this year.’ Michael Fiducia, Coworth Park Ascot
‘A very savoury flight, a lot of tannin, not a lot of fruit. Very drying and savoury, and big. Interesting to add in to a list. It’s a category that bears looking at – it’s full-bodied but savoury, and without jammy fruit.’ Jade Koch, team leader
‘I was disappointed with the most expensive wines: big wines, lots of oak notes but just muscle, no elegance.’ Gabriele Galuppo, Theo Randall at the InterContinental
‘Very rustic style of wine. You’d need to drink them with pork, veal or game –something heavier with sauces.’ Andrés Rangel, Sketch