Spain: Rioja - White, Crianza & Sin Crianza
2018 Gold 7 Silver 8 Bronze 7 Commended 13
2017 Gold 4 Silver 13 Bronze 7 Commended 23
Ageing in Rioja isn’t quite as simple as it used to be. In fact, it’s getting rather complicated. It used to be joven/sin crianza = young and cheap. But, in fact, our two sin crianza Golds this year were more expensive than our crianzas.
That’s because the lack of age statement doesn’t mean that it’s unaged – only that the producers have elected not to give it one, usually because they’re aiming for a more modern style and don’t want the ‘traditional’ nomenclature to bring in old-style associations. Simple…
Whites aren’t what they used to be either. All of our wines here this year were modern in style: clean, fresh, light, largely unoaked and definitely not oxidised at all. Purists might shudder, but they’re probably easier to sell.
At least you know (mostly) where you are with crianzas. While there were a few unusual interlopers in the early stages, our medal winners were textbook examples and mostly very well priced.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘The style of white Rioja has changed. It’s unrecognisable from the old oxidised, oaky style. The pendulum has swung to very dry, crisp, clean and low in flavour. Old-style Rioja was a class of its own, but with very few lovers. The new style – well, anyone can do it.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘It was very good to see these different crianzas together, from lighter modern styles to the more rich, older style. Overall they were very good, with good value for money. You could have more than one on a list. It’s good to present different styles of crianza, where you can pair different styles with different parts of the meal.’ Melania Bellesini, The Fat Duck
‘I was expecting to find a bit more value at the cheaper end here, but the lowest-priced crianzas weren’t really delivering anything. At the higher prices they were quite interesting though, and they’re still relatively cheap for what they are.’ Jacopo Mazzeo, The Pig Hotel
‘There were good wines across the board for the sin crianzas. There were no problems with reduction – they were wines that you’d happily put on by the glass.’ Simon Woods, team leader
‘Crianza has a job to do, and I don’t think these generally did that. Many weren’t recognisably from their region.’ Martin Lam, team leader