Spain: Rioja – Reserva & Gran Reserva
2018 Gold 3 Silver 10 Bronze 2 Commended 9
2017 Gold 3 Silver 8 Bronze 5 Commended 11
This was a pretty standard performance from the ‘aged’ end of Rioja’s reds. Our tasters were broadly happy with what they were seeing – not blown away exactly, but not disappointed either – and pricing seemed fair. Yes, it’s gone up markedly over the past few years (as recently as 2015, most of our medals were in the £10-£14 area, whereas now it’s more like £12-£18), but as one of our tasters pointed out, at least the term ‘reserva’ actually means something in Rioja. And while these might be closer to £50 than £40 on a list now, the public are predisposed to liking them.
Congratulations to Valenciso, by the way – amazing how, in an always-large number of entries, it rises to the top. And, after years of drought, it was good to see our second consecutive gran reserva Gold medal.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘There’s still interest in the category from the consumer, and it will always sell. People know what they’re buying into – it’s almost a brand. As soon as you put it by the glass it just flies.’ Andrea Briccarello, team leader
‘There were two schools of reservas: the modern side, with a tendency to extract and glossy oak; and the old style that are more meaty and savoury. But both styles were textbook in their area.’ Chris Delalonde MS, Bleeding Heart Group
‘I really love Rioja – but I found some of these too tight and dry.’ Stefano Barbarino, Chez Bruce Restaurant
‘Rioja is still very popular. Customers don’t really differentiate between crianza or reserva so much, but they’re definitely looking for quality now and willing to spend a bit more for more concentrated, fuller wines.’ Simone Fadda, Roka Aldwych
‘Rioja has been resting on its laurels for far too long. The reservas should be the best category but our flight was hit-and-miss. It wasn’t bad, but I expect more.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘Some were a bit green, but overall the reservas were a good flight. Before they used too much oak – tired and dusty. Now they have better fruit.’ Daria Ershova, Ten Green Bottles
‘People generally go more for reserva than gran reserva, probably, but for people that like more oakiness, and more American oak aromas, these are a good option. And they’re quite food friendly.’ Cristian Sánchez, Hotel du Vin Cambridge