Spain: North-West, including Albariño
2018 Gold 2 Silver 6 Bronze 8 Commended 7
2017 Gold 8 Silver 5 Bronze 4 Commended 16
Last year our tasters went slightly nuts in this region. 2017’s eight Golds was about as many as the region had managed over the previous three years, so dropping back to a couple this year could be seen as more like a return to normality.
In fact, it was surprising that there weren’t a couple more. You could definitely argue that our tasters could have rounded out their selection here with a Godello and/or a pricier lees-contact Albariño, though it was good to see the red Gold trend continue – Godelia picking up its second top spot in three years.
One of the Albariño trends from this year was the increasing presence of both lees work and time in oak. It’s a move we’re seeing increasingly in Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc as well, and just as it is in New Zealand, it proved controversial with our tasters here, too. Some loved the extra weight, mouthfeel and complexity, others feared that customers will cry ‘foul’ if they order an Albariño expecting fresh citrus fruit and get cream and spice.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘We found classical styles as well as some barrel-fermented ones. On a wine list I think they need to be split into those different styles, as they’re so different.’ Tatiana Mann, The Vine Eno Gastro Pub
‘You choose Albariño because you want Albariño – there’s no point in winemakers getting too clever and going too far from that style. We’ve been seeing Albariño at silly prices, but today proved you don’t need to pay that.’ Sue Jones, The Harrow at Little Bedwyn
‘I’ve had an easy time selling the more expensive red wines from this region – they show very well straight out of the bottle – you don’t have to wait for them to open up.’ James Fryer, Woodhead 17
‘Godello is different, and can be excellent when the fruit is uncluttered by oak. It has an excellent future, both in Spain and further afield. I’d like to see it in New Zealand.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘We had a split between classic zingy Albariño – perfect seafood wine – to that level above where there’s longer lees contact, and sometimes some barrel fermentation/ageing, which is fine as long as they don’t lose sight of that original Albariño profile.’ Martin Lam, team leader
‘Outside London the price point is a stretch, but if you’re well represented in Spain, these reds are perfect wines to take that a step further.’ Euan McColm, Beaverbrook