Champagne: VINTAGE
2019 GOLD: 4 SILVER: 3 BRONZE: 3 COMMENDED: 8
2018 GOLD: 1 SILVER: 2 BRONZE: 1 COMMENDED: 8
As with non-vintage, so too for its swankier older brother. This was a really good year for vintage champagne, with a high number of medals and a record number of places on the Gold List.
Not that it was without its controversy, though. While our tasters liked what was in the glass before them, there were question marks about whether the category’s positioning is being eroded both from without (by super-premium non-vintages) and from within by cheap examples of vintage – as team leader Jan Konetzki points out below.
That said, there was precious little evidence of the latter trend. Only two of our entrants this year were sub-£30, and they did no better than Commended. Most of the entries were at £35 to £50, although there were a couple of sublime examples at the ‘what the hell, it’s our Golden Wedding Anniversary’ price level, too.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘We sell a lot of vintage champagne at 67 Pall Mall. There’s a trend towards blanc de blancs and drier styles, but the Pinot Noir-based blends work better with food, they have more weight and structure.’ Terry Kandylis, 67 Pall Mall
‘I enjoyed the ones that were more Pinot Noir-dominant with red berry fruits coming forward and the ones that were more autolytic. They give more complexity, more to talk about. Your client base is expecting that amount of flavour coming forward, value-for-money-wise.’ Sean Arthur, Cliveden House
‘In the scheme of vintage champagnes, the impact of a vintage has dropped in the past five years, due to the appearance of the “premium non-vintage” and the “entry-level vintage”. The split doesn’t work any more from the financial side. In the old days, NV was mid-premium and vintage super-premium – now it’s a mixed bag of prices.’ Jan Konetzki, team leader