Port
2019 GOLD: 4 SILVER: 9 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 4
2018 GOLD: 7 SILVER: 7 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 5
On one hand, this looks like a rather average year for this category. After all, our Gold count was just over half what we’ve managed in the past two years. But in fact, this was more down to some ruthlessness in the compiling of our final list. I mean, how many ports does our fictional wine list actually need?
But though small, this was actually a rather better-balanced list than we’ve tended to manage over the past few years, when things have been rather dominated by the tawny category. This year, we had two wonderful whites and (hooray!) a high-quality LBV. In fact, if there was one area that underperformed this year it was, mystifyingly, tawny port, with just one place on the Gold List.
The best news about this category – apart from the variety on offer? The price. Fabulous value for money. No wonder our tasters were won over.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘I was surprised to find wines here that I could sell today. There were some really practical, useful wines in this flight.’ Bianca Potenza, Bluespoon Andaz Hotel – Amsterdam
‘Like great Bordeaux, these [red styles] need time. Even between the beginning of a bottle and the end you find different expressions. You can start with one during the main course, moving on to cheese and dessert.’ Rémi Cousin, Le Gavroche
‘White port has a bad reputation because of port and tonic, but this showed that if treated properly it can be a serious wine, without being expensive either.’ Tom Forrest, team leader
‘The real excitement is in 20-year-old tawny. Sometimes 30- and 40-year-old tawny can be too old.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘We don’t have a ruby at Heddon Street, but we do have an LBV, a 10-year-old tawny, a 20-year-old tawny and a 2002 vintage. Our most commonly sold are the LBV and the vintage.’ Timothy Connor, Heddon Street Kitchen
‘I love tawny ports. They finish a meal better, they’re better to drink on their own, and there’s some real value for money. They’re just a really tough sell – but that’s the sweet wine category in general.’ Rebecca Coates, consultant