Sweet Wines
2019 GOLD: 6 SILVER: 9 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 15
2018 GOLD: 3 SILVER: 7 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 8
Ah, that rush of sugar at the end of a day’s tasting. Is there anything quite like it? Apparently not. We regularly have to rein in our tasting teams here, otherwise our wine list would look like Usain Bolt’s trophy cabinet.
But this year our half-dozen Golds ranged from a super-sweet icewine through Tokaji and botrytised Marlborough Riesling to a lighter Cape Muscat and a nutty, sherry-like Sardinian Vernaccia. It was, in other words, a stimulating and well-balanced selection.
Certainly, it was better balanced than some of the entries. Super-sweetness without back-up acidity was the biggest failing of those that didn’t make it to the medal stages. The only other negative? However good these wines are, they’re not an easy sell.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘It’s difficult to pair sweet wines during the meal, though we used to do a tasting menu only with sweet wine, and it was really well received.’ Raphael Thierry, Street XO
‘Sweet wines can be quite difficult to sell. People don’t like them when they’re too sweet.’ Elisa Soggia, Kai Mayfair
‘You’re looking for acid, not too full-bodied, something that drinks like a wine.’ Ian Howard, consultant
‘The non-botrytis wines could work as a sipping option instead of a dessert – but you couldn’t match them with sweet foods, it’s just too much.’ Martin Lam, team leader
‘This was a stupendous selection of icewine from around the world. These wines come at a certain price tag but are well worth trying. They might not be in high demand in restaurants, but deserve to be revisited.’ Olivier Gasselin, Hakkasan
‘Sweet wines are generally at very high price points, and when I’m pricing flights they come towards the end of the budget. It’s hard to find value.’ Jim Bass, Scarlet Hotel