New World: Other Red Varieties & Blends
including Mediterranean varieties
2019 Gold 5 Silver 8 Bronze 6 Commended 15
2018 Gold 6 Silver 12 Bronze 13 Commended 24
This is often where winemakers go to experiment a bit – less typical grape varieties, unusual blends, that kind of thing. As such, it’s also a fun place for sommeliers looking to add something a bit quirky to the list – often at a half-decent price.
Last year the number of entries here was huge – as was the kick-out rate. Clearly, then, not all experimentation is good… And it was more of the same this year: big flights, wide shifts in wine styles, and rather too often a yawning gulf between what the winemaker thought they were going to achieve and what they actually succeeded in doing.
It’s hard to be over-specific in such a wide-ranging category, but there were a few definite highs and lows. Maule was a definite (and surprising) disappointment, whereas Petite Sirah generally fared well. Italian varieties were well-received, but mystifyingly small in number, given that they’ve been touted as Australia’s next big Point of Difference.
Certainly, the Italian varieties definitely address two common criticisms often levelled at wines in this flight: they can absorb sun without losing freshness and have an ability to carry higher alcohol levels without becoming unbalanced.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘In the Maule wines I felt there was no buffering of fruit, just a hollow shell and a lot of oak thrown at it to make it more expensive.’ Carolina W Seibel, Moio Restaurant
‘A lot of fruit, ripeness and body. And massive tannins. A tough flight.’ Ross Antonelli, Hawksmoor Borough
‘Challenging. There were some very uninspiring wines within the line-up, but some were lovely at £10-£15 and would work well as an addition to someone’s list.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘The quality was not very high – funky wines that weren’t for my palate.’ Dario Barbato, Individual Restaurants
‘I was hoping for the alcohol to be better integrated, more depth of flavour, not just the fruit and sweet oak spices.’ Savvas Symeonidis, Gymkhana Restaurant
‘Compared to Italy, the New World versions have more bright fruit, more freshness and juiciness. Really pleasant, charming and affordable.’ Rémi Cousin, Le Gavroche
‘There was great value for money around £10 in the Italian Varieties flight, with wines that can be listed anywhere from casual dining to more fine dining. They’re really sommelier wines though – you need to recommend them.’ Olivier Gasselin, Hakkasan