New World: Cabernet Franc
2019 Gold 2 Silver 2 Bronze 2 Commended 7
2018 Gold 1 Silver 5 Bronze 1 Commended 7
There have been murmurings about the potential of Cabernet Franc in the New World for a few years now – and this year’s showing will have done nothing to damp them down. They won’t have amplified them to a high-decibel yell either, but still – this is a category that seems, bit by bit, to be gaining fans.
First things first, don’t come here expecting cheap – our best-priced medal winner was £12, which puts it in the £50 area on most lists. But what’s actually in the glass is exciting: these are wines that have a natural lift and perfume, while the more reliable sunshine brings a little more generosity than you’d get in the Loire, say.
And that combination of elegance and approachability is understandably attractive to our somms. Moreover, the superb Stratus Cab Franc from Niagara was the kind of wine that can make you rethink entire regions. It was wonderfully elegant, and entirely worth its Critics’ Choice award. Our tasters loved it across the board, in both rounds of judging.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘These were very interesting, and good quality. They’re quite different to Cabernet Franc from Europe. They were quite stylish, and a nice alternative to many other red wines. The best ones, that had harmony and were well balanced, went up to £20, which isn’t a bargain, but if you’re looking for something special for meat dishes, then it’s a really interesting option.’ Markus Dilger, Dilger Sommelier Selection
‘I’m a big fan of Cabernet Franc, both for the structure it can gain on ageing, as well as the opportunity to drink them young, with freshness and fruitiness without them being too dry. That’s exactly what we had here. They’re great value.’ Marco Marcuzzo, Aster Restaurant
‘This is a variety that has been forgotten for too many years, and seems to be coming back to life, with the ripeness of the New World bringing a sweetness. It’s so food friendly, and something you can talk to customers about. It works with a wide range of food, and you can drink it chilled, so it hits the spot in both summer and winter.’ Christopher Delalonde MS, The Dorchester