New World: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Bordeaux Blends - USA
2019 Gold 6 Silver 10 Bronze 3 Commended 6
2018 Gold 3 Silver 8 Bronze 1 Commended 5
You don’t, on this evidence, go to the US if you’re on a bit of a budget; we had only two medal-winners under £10 (well done Kautz and Boutinot). But it’s indisputably a good place to come if you’re after high quality, big fruit and a bit of blingy oak. And increasingly our tasters are happy to recognise that. Where they might have turned their noses up at this style of wines in the past, now they can see a use for them and are happy to reward the best specimens.
The result? A category that’s on a roll. In 2016, the US managed only half a dozen medals, this year it was more than three times that. No surprise that most of the medals are from California, nor that those from Napa are right at the top end of wines submitted for the competition.
But what was a thoroughly pleasant surprise was the growth of wines sent in from Washington. With plenty of sun but lower temperatures and colder nights, its style is distinctively different, and one that our tasters seemed to like a lot. We’ll surely see more from here going forward.
Oh, and well done to Trefethen, whose Cabernet Gold last year was followed by a top award for its Merlot this year.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘There weren’t any exciting wines below about £16 or £20, but when you spend the money you find the quality here. These are definitely food wines, for charcoal grill or barbecue.’ Alan Bednarski, Texture
‘Even at the lower end, I think California shows good value for money, with fruit-driven, full-bodied, rich wines, and I think these were a revelation. They were big and bold wines, fruit-driven and showing complexity, displaying some big winemaking skills.’ Matteo Cali, Savoy Grill
‘The flight from outside California was much better than the Californians in price, and more approachable for the customer. Balanced, too – more fruity and fresh.’ Carlos Ferreira, team leader
‘Across the flight these were very good, from the entry level ticking all the boxes and showing typicity, and going up in price with better oak management, where the wines were richer, with layers of complexity. They needed to slow down on the residual sugar and the oak, and we were seeing that here.’ Andre Luis Martins, Cavalry & Guards Club
‘In terms of price, it’s true that they can’t compete against Italian reds maybe, or Chilean and Argentinian wines, but the quality versus value for money put these in my top three favourites.’ Roberto Sanchez, Sexy Fish
‘In a sense, they were quite old-fashioned wines, but were very well made. These kinds of wine are actually very useful on a wine list. At the highest prices they were a bit expensive, but they were showing development and readiness to drink.’ Raphael Thierry, Street XO
‘The non-Californian wines were a great flight. Some very light, forward, blueberry-flavoured styles to richer, more challenging styles.’ Jim Bass, Scarlet Hotel