New World: Pinot Noir - Australia
2019 Gold 3 Silver 3 Bronze 3 Commended 4
2018 Gold 1 Silver 4 Bronze 1 Commended 4
There’s nothing like a great rivalry to spice things up a bit. Think Joan Crawford and Bette Davis Frazier and Ali, Blur and Oasis. And now, in wine, I think we can safely add Australia and New Zealand. Of course the latter is a lot smaller than the former, and until recently they kind of concentrated on different things: Australia had Syrah and Chardonnay, while New Zealand was all about Sauvignon and Pinot.
But increasingly the Aussies seem to be muscling in on Kiwi territory. First in this year’s Sommelier Wine Awards they dominated the New World Rieslings, now they’re trying to plant their flag in Pinot, too. The Kiwis must be heartily sick of the sight of them.
This year’s three Golds and nine medals was the Aussies’ best haul with Pinot in this competition, and it’s not unexpected. Our tasters have been happy with what’s been coming in from Oz with this grape for a while, and though the prices are pretty ballsy, so is the winemaking: good fruit, whole bunch, stem work… it’s all there.
And if the prices were a little Burgundian, our tasting teams didn’t care: they see wines like this as a viable stylistic alternative, not a replacement.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘You should absolutely have an Australian Pinot Noir on your list. Very versatile, with that lightness of touch and elegance. Australian Pinot Noir is doing very well at the moment, and you’ll probably find one that will suit your food at the right price point.’ Nigel Lister, team leader
‘A real dichotomy between the fruit-forward, easy-drinking, approachable styles and the guys that take themselves very seriously with some very clever winemaking – whole bunch, extra stems, low intervention. An impressive range.’ Claire Love, Loves Consultancy
‘Wines were either in or out, without much in between.’ Laurent Richet MS, team leader
‘All quite fruity, accessible Pinot Noir. I prefer the Burgundy style: richer, more interesting, more intriguing.’ Gabriele Bertotti, Maze by Gordon Ramsay
‘I’ve been a bit disappointed in the past, but it was really good this year. Nothing I wouldn’t be able to sell, that wouldn’t please people. Lots of winemaking going on, but that’s becoming part of the style.’ James Fryer, Woodhead 17