NEW WORLD: Shiraz/Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre & Blends - South Africa

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New World: Shiraz/Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre & Rhône-style Blends - South Africa

2019 Gold 4 Silver 4 Bronze 2 Commended 9
2018 Gold 1 Silver 4 Bronze 5 Commended 8

South Africa, you might think, is about Cab blends in Stellenbosch and Rhône blends elsewhere. Well, not on this evidence. Our tasters were dismissive of the wines from outside Stellenbosch, and significantly more positive about the GSMs from within the borders of the Cape’s most famous region.

While there were some good (and a few very good) wines on show here, the Cape doesn’t yet have either the consistency of Australia or a particularly defined style, so you need to taste around and pick with care.

Big shout-out to Kleine Zalze (again) though: second year on the trot its Family Reserve has picked up a place on our Gold List.

FROM THE TASTING TEAMS

‘The quality is really coming through here, and the styles were extremely well defined as South African, which is brilliant. When it came to [The Stork and the De Trafford] you knew it was the hand of a master making them.’ Angela Reddin, team leader

‘Too much extraction, too much oak, unbalanced, not a reflection of the new wave of producers.’ Andre Luis Martins, Cavalry & Guards Club

‘I was really impressed. I think the region’s overlooked. They’re becoming distinct from other GSMs, and finding an identity that they might not always have had. Because of the price point, some of them would really work across a range of venues. And there was real versatility.’ Jim Bass, Scarlet Hotel

‘We all expected great things, and we didn’t find them.’ Martin Lam, team leader

‘I think they should be focused on good value for money, rather than trying to create some expensive wines. There were some surprisingly well-balanced and fresh wines in the middle range here.’ Alan Bednarski, Texture

‘When I talk about good GSM from the New World, it has to replicate the style of Côtes du Rhône. It has to have that mushroomy, gamey taste, and a bit of a brett tone, but not too much. There were a few of those here that I liked.’ Pasquale Moschettieri, Benares Restaurant & Bar

Award winners

Found 19 wines

New World: Shiraz/Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre & Rhône Blends, South Africa

Dorrance, Rouge 2017, Stellenbosch, South Africa

Happily adding this to the Gold List, team leader Martin Lam praised its ‘bright fresh fruit nose’ and ‘bold palate of spicy red fruits’. For fellow team leader Laurent Richet MS, this spice had ‘a meaty edge and a savoury saline note with hints of salted pork’. Giuseppe Longobardi of The Cross Kenilworth, Simpsons & Edgbaston enjoyed the ‘raspberry and cherry fruit, with notes of mint and pencil lead’, adding: ‘The good soft fruit and tannins would work well with duck breast and smoked beetroot.’

£9.67 Top Selection

De Trafford, Syrah 393 2014, Stellenbosch, South Africa

‘A true gem,’ said Joseph Lunn of Suave Wine as the team gladly awarded this Gold. ‘The nose is amazing,’ he continued, describing ‘French patisserie, sweet spices, vanilla and herbs… and it keeps changing in the glass’. Team leader Laurent Richet MS was also fulsome in his praise: ‘It’s round and complete, with complex dark fruit, spicy vanilla, plums and jam. Plus the structure is here too.’ For Juan Manuel Marcos Perez of The Gilbert Scott, the wine had a ‘perfect mix of red and black fruit with good concentration and a good charred wood, spiced long finish’.

£41.80 Bibendum

Hartenberg, The Stork 2015, Stellenbosch, South Africa

Annamaria Juhasz of The Fat Duck was a big advocate of this unanimous Gold Lister, saying: ‘The wine shines with a nose of black fruits and eucalypatus; this feels young, vibrant and very complex with notes of citrus peel and bramble, and with blackberries on the palate. It’s a beautiful example of South Africa – still at the youthful stage but with lots of potential.’ Team leader Angela Reddin was also a fan, praising the ‘lifted, bright, plummy fruit cordial notes; the liquorice spice’, and adding: ‘Still the fruit holds itself; layering over the tannins and riding the acid like a racehorse.’ A wine of ‘subtle and elegant power’ concluded Joseph Lunn of Suave Wine.

£33.50 Bancroft Wines

Kleine Zalze, Family Reserve, Shiraz 2015, Stellenbosch, South Africa

‘A grown-up wine,’ announced Joseph Lunn of Suave Wine of this big Gold medal winner, adding: ‘It’s very New World, with lovely balance.’ ‘It’s mouthwatering,’ said Sarah McKenzie of Nut Tree Inn, adding: ‘There’s smoky cassis, luscious fruit and good tannin.’ Giuseppe Longobardi of The Cross Kenilworth, Simpsons & Edgbaston agreed, also noting ‘chocolate and tobacco notes’ on a palate that was ‘sweet and balanced, with a long, fresh and clean finish’. ‘It’s a monster,’ added team leader Martin Lam, with a smile.

£20.12 Hatch Mansfield

Spier, Creative Block 3 2015, Stellenbosch, South Africa

‘Subtle aromas of complex fruit and spice,’ noted Michael Fiducia of The Royal Automobile Club. ‘The palate is rich and opulent with a touch of herbaceousness and very well-integrated tannins.’ ‘Will age well, but it’s wonderful now,’ added team leader Angela Reddin.

£17.24 Bibendum , Walker & Wodehouse Wines

Boschendal, Grande, Syrah 2014, Stellenbosch, South Africa

‘Wow!’ said team leader Laurent Richet MS. ‘This is big, with tightly held dark fruit and spice; there is an intriguing mix of bitter and sweet acidity and alcohol.’ ‘Very well made and age worthy,’ added Alan Bednarski of Texture.

£30.00 DGB Europe Ltd

Tokara, Reserve Collection, Syrah 2015, Stellenbosch, South Africa

Sarah McKenzie of Nut Tree Inn thought this was a ‘well-balanced food wine, with elegant cherry notes, lovely tannin and a long fruit and spice finish’. ‘It’s reminiscent of a eucalyptus-tinged Côte du Rhône with woody herbs notes of sage and thyme,’ added Alan Bednarski of Texture.

£15.27 Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies

Ken Forrester, The Renegade, Shiraz/Grenache 2014, Western Cape, South Africa

‘Interesting, very delicate texture with Grenache showing very well. Lots of macerated fruit here. I would match it with chicken or roast pork belly,’ said Stefano Barbarino of Chez Bruce Restaurant. ‘Sensational layering of fruit, with tannin in perfect balance,’ added team leader Angela Reddin.

£10.42 Enotria&Coe

Kleine Zalze, Vineyard Selection, Shiraz 2016, Stellenbosch, South Africa

‘There’s nice plum, pepper and tobacco notes on the nose with good body and structure and silky tannins to finish; good value,’ said Jim Bass of Scarlet Hotel.

£9.48 Hatch Mansfield

De Trafford, Blueprint, Shiraz 2015, Stellenbosch, South Africa

‘This smells like a Châteauneuf du Pape,’ thought team leader Laurent Richet MS. ‘I imagine there were old large barrels for ageing; the colour is very inky and there is a hint of brett but in a good way – it adds to the seasoning.’

£20.37 Bibendum

Journey's End, The Architect, Syrah Mourvedre Viognier 2015, Stellenbosch, South Africa

£20.33 Bibendum

Spice Route, Chakalaka 2015, Swartland, South Africa

£12.02 Liberty Wines

Fram, Shiraz 2017, Western Cape, South Africa

£9.36 Enotria&Coe

Thelema, Mountain Red Blend 2015, Western Cape, South Africa

£8.25 Enotria&Coe