New World: Malbec
2019 Gold 9 Silver 7 Bronze 8 Commended 17
2018 Gold 7 Silver 13 Bronze 12 Commended 11
Malbec, our tasters agreed, is Popular With Customers. We know. Shocking isn’t it? In other news, bears admit to ‘going in the woods’ and Pope ‘revealed as Catholic’…
But interestingly, what those customers think of as ‘typically Malbec’ isn’t necessarily what they’re going to get. At the entry level, yes – it’s all about violets, juicy hedgerow fruit and a kick of spicy oak. But move upmarket and increasingly these are serious wines of power and structure; wines that are competing with heavyweights from the Northern Rhône or the Barossa, rather than easy drinkers.
So, not quite so straightforward any more, Mr Bond… The good news, however, was that our teams could definitely detect improvements in quality as the prices went up – this isn’t simply cynical pricing for the sake of it. And in any case the most common negative factors here – high alcohol and over-jammy fruit – were just as likely at £8 as they were at £20.
When the winemakers got it right, in other words, they really got it right, which is how we ended up with a record number of Golds. Nine is a stunning performance, second only to Aussie Shiraz in the New World section.
We just need more wineries to follow the example of Trapiche, whose Finca Ambrosia picked up a Gold for the second year on the trot.
Oh, and who’d have thought that New Zealand would get more Golds for Malbec (one) than it did for Bordeaux Blends or Syrah…?
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Malbec has to be on a wine list, and we found wines that would fit everywhere from gastropubs to fine wine. A few years ago these didn’t have such big tannic structure. They’re serious wines, but well made.’ Raphael Thierry, Street XO
‘There were a few gems here, between £7.50 and £16, but there’s also a lot of extraction and New World approach, trying to deliver sweetness for the American market.’ Christopher Delalonde MS, The Dorchester
‘There are two markets here, starting with the entry level with jammy fruit and soft tannin, and then those for people looking for structure and elegance, for heavier food. We found both here.’ Marco Marcuzzo, Aster Restaurant
‘These were well produced, and not as jammy as they have been in the past – refined and elegant, with lower alcohol levels. They’re practical wines, and you can find some good examples at the premium end too.’ Sylwester Piasecki, Zuma
‘We had a bad batch, with unbalanced wines, high alcohol and overly confected fruits.’ Andres Ituarte, team leader
‘Argentinian Malbec is the standard, the Chilean ones lacked body and were more juicy – they need to improve.’ Chiara Sieni, Bottles Group
‘It’s a go-to wine, so stick with Argentina. Guests know it and feel comfortable with that.’ Sonal Clare, Purnell’s Restaurant