New World: Chardonnay, USA
2019 Gold 2 Silver 3 Bronze 1 Commended 10
2018 Gold 2 Silver 5 Bronze 4 Commended 6
Your opinion on American (particularly Californian) Chardonnay probably depends on your attitude to sweetness. If you don’t mind a lot of fruit ripeness and slick, sweet oak then you probably think it’s great. Most of our (predominantly European) tasters were more in the ‘sceptical’ camp, hence a somewhat muted display this year.
That said, most of our tasters can still see a use for wines like this – there are still plenty of customers who go looking for this style – and provided you have deep pockets they’re a useful addition to most wine lists.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Flabby, over-oaked, oak chips, a lot of creamed corn flavours coming through. It’s a shame.’ James Fryer, Woodhead 17
‘They still haven’t recalibrated themselves, still too much of everything. Australia has made the adjustments – you get balanced wines and really exciting Chardonnays. But California… they’re so, so sweet.’ Martin Lam, team leader
‘A lot of sophisticated, oaky, modern, acidified wines. There’s better value in Australia and New Zealand than in the US.’ Tanguy Martin, New Street Warehouse
‘There was some good value at the £19 mark.’ Joshua Castle, Noble Rot
‘A lot of oak, a lot of richness, a lot of lees… and expensive. But good if you like that sweetness and oak.’ Ross Antonelli, Hawksmoor Borough