NEW WORLD: Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand
2019 Gold 4 Silver 4 Bronze 3 Commended 11
2018 Gold 9 Silver 8 Bronze 9 Commended 14
New Zealand Sauvignon, it seems, is at a bit of a crossroads. Or, to take a different metaphor – it’s at that tricky ‘second album’ stage. Having burst on to the scene with bright, poppy, tropical gooseberry fruit – something that it still does well – with its first album and world tour, it now wants to be taken seriously as an artist.
The trouble is that half its audience is happy with ‘cheap and simple’ and half wants ‘more intellectual and complex’, and it means that neither side is entirely happy. It’s a bit like watching Theresa May attempt to negotiate Brexit through the House of Parliament.
And now, having metaphored ourselves to death, we can return to something approaching concrete facts: namely, that this was the lowest medal count in this category since 2015, and that pricing is inexorably linked to quality. A few tasters pointed out that customers are happy to pay £40+ for these wines now, which is just as well, since on this evidence the good stuff starts around a tenner. We had plenty of wines sent in under £10, but only four picked up medals.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘We saw lots of typicity here, supported by acidity. It’s what the market wants.’ Marco Marcuzzo, Aster Restaurant
‘These weren’t too pyrazine-led. There was a classic note to all of them, but they weren’t all just iterations of each other – there was some personality to them. Other wines have replaced the cheaper Sauvignon Blanc on a list, and I think consumers are quite happy to pay £45 or £50 now. I’m excited to see Sauvignon Blanc treated as a more premium variety. I think it has a lot of potential.’ Joshua Castle, Noble Rot
‘It’s their national grape, so it’s nice to see a few producers trying to produce a slightly different style compared to the classic palate that a consumer might expect.’ Melody Wong, The Mandrake
‘These do what it says on the tin. The standard was really high, but there is a similarity running through them. Having said that, we’re starting to see a few with a bit of oak ageing or barrel fermentation, and producers trying to find ways to make theirs different.’ Tom Forrest, team leader