New World: Chenin Blanc
2019 Gold 4 Silver 1 Bronze 1 Commended 5
2018 Gold 2 Silver 4 Bronze 2 Commended 12
Is there a more multi-faceted grape than Chenin Blanc? It’s hard to think of one. You want Sauvignon Blanc-like grassiness? It can do that. Fresh apple and citrus, like AC Bourgogne Blanc? Yup – all over it. Big, rich and oaky like a Meursault? Got that taped as well.
This is a grape that is (both literally and metaphorically) as happy kicking back barefoot in the garden with a salad as it is on the linen-decked tables of a fine dining restaurant.
It’s reasonably consistent too. Once our tasters had got rid of the wines that were a bit ‘meh’ or out of balance in the early stages, they were left with a strong range of medals. Any time you see a ‘laddering’ of Golds in a category it’s a good sign – and we had that here this year, with wines for our list that went from barely above house wine almost to Burgundy prices.
Well done, especially, to Stellenrust, which often does well in this category, and to Kleine Zalze, which picks up hatfuls of medals in this competition every year, and got two Golds here.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘People look to Chenin either for clean-drinking, crisp wines or for much more complex and heavyweight wines. There’s quite a few coming from Chile and Australia, although South Africa is still the king.’ Andre Luis Martins, Cavalry & Guards Club
‘Textbook Chenin is from South Africa, but we didn’t see it here. A lot of these had a bitter finish.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘You get good Chenin from the New World at the entry level – simple wines, delivering apple and pear, and good concentration for the price.’ Raphael Thierry, Street XO
‘There wasn’t much character at the lower end. It started to be interesting towards the higher end, with richer wine that was heavier and full bodied.’ Matteo Cali, Savoy Grill
‘I was looking for these to say that they were Chenin Blanc, with that richness and texture that you expect. The prices were competitive, which is a point in their favour.’ Roberto Sanchez, Sexy Fish