FRANCE: Red Burgundy
2019 GOLD: 6 SILVER: 3 BRONZE: 4 COMMENDED: 6
2018 GOLD: 1 SILVER: 5 BRONZE: 1 COMMENDED: 8
Pardon our French, but sometimes a region just needs a damn good kick up the derrière. Last year, Burgundy’s rouges managed just one solitary Gold – and that went to a Gamay. Pinot Noir, having swanned around being told how marvellous it was and expecting to be swathed in medals just for turning up, simply failed to deliver.
This year, stung into action, this most infuriating grape variety (and, frankly, wine style) reminded our tasters what it can do when it really puts its mind to it. Doubtless helped by the high-quality 2015 and 2016 vintages, there were some really wonderful wines here.
Admittedly, not many of them would make it on to a wine list much below £100, so if your venue is a gastropub this section is probably more window-shopping than realistic purchase option, but sometimes it’s OK just to savour the class.
This was red Burgundy’s best performance ever in the Sommelier Wine Awards. So good, in fact, that it almost outdid its blanc sister. Almost, but not quite. Something to shoot for next year.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘I don’t think Burgundy has anything to worry about. They’re still market leaders, and this was a fantastic flight. There’s not a lot of value here, but the quality is there, and there was a varied selection in terms of price.’ Andres Ituarte, team leader
‘There were very good examples across the styles, and very consistent winemaking. These were all made without too much winemaking, with good integration of wood, and some showing a lot of complexity, especially at the top end. These really showed what Burgundy is all about.’ Andre Luis Martins, Cavalry & Guards Club
‘It took us a long time to taste our flight, there’s so much going on. I expected complexity, and it was there. The prices were a bit high – but we know that.’ Laurent Richet MS, team leader
‘The most expensive wines were really good – nice structure, tannins, violets. I’m happy to pay lots of money for them.’ Chiara Sieni, Bottles Group