FRANCE: White Burgundy
2019 GOLD: 8 SILVER: 6 BRONZE: 1 COMMENDED: 15
2018 GOLD: 6 SILVER: 4 BRONZE: 4 COMMENDED: 5
There aren’t many parts of the Sommelier Wine Awards where £20-£25 constitutes ‘mid-price’, but this is emphatically one of them. Our entries here are into double figures with an almost indecent haste, and barely pause for breath until they reach the high £20s. All of which makes the achievement of the Elodie Duprés Macon Villages even more impressive. It fully deserved both its Gold and its Pub Partners award.
That said, complaining about price with Burgundy is as pointless as moaning about the thorns on a rose bush: it comes with the territory, keeps the hoi polloi away – and the end product still looks great.
Interestingly, our tasters all took away different findings from their experiences tasting here this year. Some found drinkability at the lower end, others were impressed with the middle prices, while still others felt you might as well dive in with both feet and head for the top-end wines.
All of which suggests that there’s good stuff here to suit every venue, from gastropub to Michelin-starred restaurant.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘While you still look for value, it’s true that the staggering wines here are all around £22 to £28. When you reach the bottom price points, you wouldn’t know where the wines were from.’ Christopher Delalonde MS, The Dorchester
‘In the middle price range there was really good value, with fruit-driven, elegant wines.’ Marco Marcuzzo, Aster Restaurant
‘Rich and imposing and not always in a good way. It was difficult to find good value, but the top end is still promising.’ Tanguy Martin, New Street Warehouse
‘There was a common trend of ripe acidity that was a surprise. The ones that stood out were leaner. It was exciting to see good value at entry to mid-level.’ Joshua Castle, Noble Rot
‘Classic white Burgundy – great acidity, great use of oak, finesse and balance.’ Ross Antonelli, Hawksmoor Borough
‘Very much what you’d expect – very classic, very consistent, the highest quality line-up we’ve had, but the least exciting. Safe and reliable, but perhaps not as fun as other wines we’ve tried today.’ Romain de Courcy, Gazelle Mayfair