FRANCE: Chablis
2019 GOLD: 9 SILVER:5 BRONZE: 6 COMMENDED: 15
2018 GOLD: 2 SILVER: 4 BRONZE: 3 COMMENDED: 2
Wow! Like the Loire, Chablis’ performance in the Sommelier Wine Awards can vary significantly from year to year. And if 2018’s efforts were decidedly underwhelming, we really hit a sweet spot this year. The simpler AC Chablis wines were mostly 2017, while nearly all the cru wines were from 2015. Both vintages, clearly, are drinking beautifully now, because the feedback from the tasters here was about as good as it gets.
Yes, they could detect two styles (richer and more linear), but it’s obvious which they prefer: our tasters want to feel as though they’re biting into a lump of chalk and sucking on a lemon at the same time – and there were lots of the latter here this year. The result: a hatful of medals and a record number of Golds.
Interestingly, given that prices have risen significantly over the past few years thanks to the combination of frost and duty rises, not one taster mentioned the cost of the wines. Why? Because, as Jennifer Aniston would say, they’re worth it.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘These are definitely a must-have, and I’d be able to find what I needed for a list from these here today. We saw some exceptional examples.’ Sylwester Piasecki, Zuma
‘Great flight, different characters. Some more lemony, some more honeyed, some more yeasty. It shows how eclectic the wines can be, and I loved them.’ Chiara Sieni, Bottles Group
‘For us, Chablis is a high seller. The guest is looking for freshness, citrus, lemony flavour. Some had quite ripe fruit, a different style.’ Rémi Cousin, Le Gavroche
‘Phenomenal. Very classic. Acidity, minerality, everything was there.’ Carlos Ferreira, team leader
‘All the flight was incredible. In general, very good quality, very good value for money. A classic wine that’s very versatile, works very well with food and is something unique – Chablis is Chablis.’ Noelia Calleja, Hakkasan Hanway Place