FRANCE: Loire
2019 GOLD: 9 SILVER: 10 BRONZE: 5 COMMENDED: 10
2018 GOLD: 3 SILVER: 3 BRONZE: 6 COMMENDED: 9
Perhaps not surprisingly, given its northerly location, the Loire can be one of the most up and down sections of this competition. Vintage matters. But so, too, does variety. And this year the planets aligned perfectly. We had a raft of entries from decent vintages and, crucially, from across the appellation.
The result? Our tasting teams were able to find Golds for our list in a wide variety of styles, from zesty Muscadets through well-priced Touraine Sauvignons to a richer Pouilly Fumé. It was wonderful to see a good performance from the reds as well. We’ve only had one red Gold in the past three years, so to get two at once (and from different vintages) was a real bonus.
Two Food Match awards shows why sommeliers like this region so much. Great – and unique – restaurant wines for good prices. And big congratulations to Pithon Paille for its two Golds and a Critics’ Choice award. Fine effort…
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘There’s much more representation of Loire reds than there was. People are certainly more aware of Cabernet Franc.’ Michael Harrison, CuVée VIII
‘The Sancerres started at a very high price point. I was expecting better value. Stylistically there were two extremes, with some that were really tart, tight and reductive, while others were overly complex and flabby. It’s about finding that balance between herbaceous characteristics and tropical fruit, and none here really ticked those boxes.’ Charlie Carter, Ten Green Bottles
‘Some of the Sauvignon flight were less typical than we expected, lacking that zippy, mineral, floral style. There was more excitement above the £10 mark.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘They can go very well with a whole meal, not just as an aperitif. There are lots of foods that can match with Sauvignon.’ Dario Barbato, Individual Restaurants
‘I really liked the Chenin flight. I found nice minerality here, and most showed terroir, too. There was the refreshing style, and then those with some oxidation, and I think both styles work. The refreshing style works well with fish, and maybe dim sum, while the oxidative style is better suited to heavier meats. These would be good for the sharing concept at our restaurant, where the wine can work from the beginning to the end of the meal.’ Oliver Nagy, Hakkasan Hanway Place
‘These show that Muscadet is making a comeback.’ Tom Forrest, team leader