FRANCE: Red Rhône
2019 GOLD: 8 SILVER: 14 BRONZE: 7 COMMENDED: 15
2018 GOLD: 9 SILVER: 11 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 9
Year in year out the Rhône remains perhaps the strongest category in this competition, racking up medals and Golds seemingly at will. Usually, it’s a combination of sub-£10 Côtes du Rhônes, then a frankly indecent number of spectactularly wonderful northern Rhônes. Typically, the South barely gets a look in.
Well, this year it was the turn of the vignerons from south of Montelimar to shine. Maybe the more recent vintages suited the South more than the North, but whereas the latter were aromatic and pretty, but ultimately often slightly lacking in palate weight, their southern counterparts were simply wonderful: powerful and fruit-driven, but also savoury and (for once) not overdone. With six Golds, plus Food Match and Critics’ Choice Trophies, this was the southern Rhône’s best performance in the Sommelier Wine Awards by some distance.
Our one criticism, if we had to make one, is the depressing lack of amazing value-for-money cheapies. This was one part of SWA where we could usually rely on two or three great Golds under £8. Now it’s getting hard to sneak them in under £10. Our cheapest medal winner this year, the Les Volets, for instance, is a Vin de Pays Malbec rather than a Côtes du Rhône.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘A lot of very good value. “A blend of happiness”: Mediterranean climate, naturally clean and dry vineyards, an abundance of indigenous grape varieties to work with. I’m always very happy here.’ Jan Konetzki, team leader
‘The Côtes du Rhônes were the flight that I medalled the most. As we went up in price you could see the complexity.’ Savvas Symeonidis, Gymkhana Restaurant
‘The northern Rhône flight was amazing. Even though the prices at the top were high, the quality was high, too.’ Rémi Cousin, Le Gavroche
‘Northern Rhônes were a really good flight. There were interesting wines in both modern and old-school styles.’ Adam Michocki, The Glasshouse
‘I’ve always thought Côtes du Rhône is up there with Rioja and Chianti as a kind of word that people associate with wine. I was expecting consistency, and I got it.’ Nigel Lister, team leader
‘In the mid-range, from £9 to £12, there were some real winners from the southern Rhône – really expressive and balanced, with that fantastic savoury fruit balance that the Rhône delivers so well.’ Martin Lam, team leader
‘Really lovely wines showing really good value for money at one end, and potential for really elegant, ageworthy wines at the other.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘[The northern Rhône flight] were less extracted, with better freshness compared to a few years ago. If you spent £10 you can get value for money; if you spend £30 you still get value for money.’ Lionel Periner, team leader