France: South & South-West, including Vins de France - Red
2019 GOLD: 8 SILVER: 6 BRONZE: 5 COMMENDED: 19
2018 GOLD: 2 SILVER: 8 BRONZE: 8 COMMENDED: 12
Well we didn’t see this one coming. The ‘red’ side of the South of France tends to be reliably outscored by its white sister in this competition – usually due to an obsession with oak and alcohol that could best be described as ‘enthusiastic rather than well-judged’.
And those comments reared their ugly, oaky heads again at the first stage of judging, when our tasters ran into a lot of wine that they didn’t like at all. So far, so South of France red…
The difference this year was that, once they’d weeded out the poor bottles, what remained was generally a lot better than usual. There were wines here of character and quality – even if, this year, that mostly came in the £10-£20 area.
Do these wines overdeliver? Emphatically yes – particularly Cazes’ sublime Roussillon Villages, which picked up a Critics’ Choice award. Can you sell them? Yes, again – and your customers will like what they’re tasting. But at these prices they won’t walk off the list without a bit of help.
The exception to this is Grands Chais’ fantastic Grenache/Pinot Vin de France. A steal at barely over House Wine level.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Very ripe fruit and high alcohol. One of the worst flights I’ve had in five years.’ Carlos Ferreira, team leader
‘There was remarkable value for money [in the Vins de France]. They overdeliver.’ Michael Harrison, CuVée VIII
‘Some very well-made wine with good oak integration at the more expensive prices. But we struggled to find value for money.’ Matteo Cali, Savoy Grill
‘Really good quality. You can find wines between £7 and £12 with good character. The top wines – once they were just new oak, now you can find more fruit.’ Lionel Periner, team leader
‘A difficult flight. Wines not in balance overall, and too much technical vinification – thermal, acidification… I didn’t expect that.’ Tanguy Martin, New Street Warehouse
‘I usually expect good value for money from the south-west of France, for something like the beginning of a by-the-glass selection. I think these would satisfy a specific range of customers, especially in terms of value for money.’ Melania Battiston, 28-50 Wine Workshop & Kitchen
‘Some went wrong with too much extraction. But when they got it right they were lovely: fruity and spicy.’ Tom Forrest, team leader
‘Overall these were good wines. What they do well is produce wines that are drinkable, and drinkable now, and that’s what consumers want.’ Filip Viorel, Benares Restaurant & Bar