Germany
2019 GOLD: 6 SILVER: 2 BRONZE: 1 COMMENDED: 3
2018 GOLD: 6 SILVER: 10 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED:10
How much German Riesling and Pinot would we like to see in the Sommelier Wine Awards? ‘More, always’ is the answer. Our tasters love these wines with the blind devotion of a long-suffering country and western femme fatale. However high the prices, however sharp the acidity or edgy the fruit, they’ll stand by their vin.
This year saw another nicely balanced range of wines on the Gold List. In fact, it was rather better than last year, with a fine spread of prices and styles in the Rieslings and two, not one, Spätburgunders. The two Critics’ Choice awards tells you much of what you need to know about the quality here. It was superlative.
There is, however, a ‘but’. And it’s that our overall medal count was half that of last year; not because the quality was lower, but simply because there were fewer wines sent in. As Tammy Wynette almost said, sometimes it’s hard to be a wine somm.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Our flight showed how ripeness can change the flavour profile of Riesling, whether really attractive stone fruit or something more austere and appley.’ Tom Forrest, team leader
‘It’s clearly not only all about Riesling in Germany. With these other varieties you can offer a nice discovery, and value for money too.’ Rémi Cousin, Le Gavroche
‘The nice thing was to see Pinot in a variety of styles. It’s encouraging that Germany can make good things at the £16-£17 price point. It becomes less of an oddity, and becomes something you can sell.’ Hamish Anderson, team leader
‘If you don’t want to spend over £15, you take a risk going elsewhere in the world. From Germany, at that price point you know you’ll get a classic Riesling.’ Carlos Ferreira, team leader
‘Bright acidity, a touch of residual sugar, tons of minerality and a sense of terroir. They’re just really elegant, delicious, well-made wines.’ Andres Ituarte, team leader
‘As soon as we started tasting we were all talking about food. The wines gave us lots of quirky ideas for combinations.’ Michael Moore, The London Cookhouse
‘There’s a new generation of producers that are trying to find the more elegant and Burgundian way, while keeping their local character too. And you could really taste the differences between the regions.’ Markus Dilger, Dilger Sommelier Selection