Italy: Central - White, including Verdicchio
2019 GOLD: 6 SILVER: 10 BRONZE: 6 COMMENDED: 18
2018 GOLD: 2 SILVER: 7 BRONZE: 0 COMMENDED: 15
From being the most ‘meh’ of categories four or five years ago, with bored tasters and a handful of medals, this section is starting to generate real interest now – and has done over the past few years.
It helps that the wines are (generally) relatively well priced – there’s a good swathe of medals here that could make it on to wine lists around the £35-£40 mark. But most significantly of all, they seem to be stylistically in an area that our judges (and their customers) are looking for.
If 15 years ago it was all about ripe fruit and oak, now zip and freshness are the key – and these wines have that in abundance.
Sure, it’s good to see quality Chardonnays and ambitious oaked wines being rewarded, but the story here seems to be the continuing emergence of Pecorino, which our tasters loved. Watch this space.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Really interesting in terms of quality, even in the higher prices. Good personality, good freshness, good fruitiness. Good food wines too.’ Lionel Periner, team leader
‘I didn’t get on board with the oaked styles of Verdicchio – it didn’t work for me.’ Sean Arthur, Cliveden House
‘Charming in style, but northern Italian whites are more exciting.’ Adam Michocki, The Glasshouse
‘Really impressive. The centre of Italy’s not really as popular as the north – it should be.’ Elisa Soggia, Kai Mayfair
‘Most Pecorinos we tried today were fantastic value for money. I think about saffron notes, a little bit of pepper, it should be bright and mineral on the palate.’ Olivier Gasselin, Hakkasan
‘At the lower end, Verdicchio is not more interesting than Pinot Grigio. But you do see some premium cuvées, and the good examples of those really stand out.’ Charlie Young, team leader
‘Pecorino is a delicious grape than needs to be explored more. Good with seafood, great as an aperitif. You can sell a glass for £8 or £9. It’s a grape that gives great value for money and cash margin.’ Emanuel Pesqueira, consultant