Italy: Chianti
2019 GOLD: 5 SILVER: 8 BRONZE: 8 COMMENDED: 7
2018 GOLD: 7 SILVER: 5 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 7
One of the undoubted stars of last year, Chianti put in a slightly more subdued performance this year, though five Golds is still above average.
This seems to be a category in something of a stylistic transition, and that brought mixed responses from our tasters. Some liked the extra fruit (and oak in the case of the Gran Selezione wines), others found them overdone and expensive.
Some liked the tougher, mid-weight acid bombs, others found them mean and hard going. In this category, you really can find whatever you want at whatever price you want it, though it’s getting tougher to find much under a tenner. Stop us if you’ve heard this before.
Two points of further interest: no Chiantis (as opposed to Classicos) picked up Gold this year, and well done to Vicchiomaggio and San Felice, both of whom picked up top spots for the second year on the trot.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Some of the best examples showed this dark cherry, gravelly, minerally character and lovely precision. With so much excitement around Piemonte, Chianti has been slightly forgotten about, which is a shame, as with a bit of age they can be beautiful.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘Nobody ever asks me for it. I have one, we never sell it. I don’t know why. It’s not the popular wine it used to be.’ Laurent Richet MS, team leader
‘Chianti’s not everyone’s cup of tea, it’s quite a harsh, austere style with a lot of tannin and dried fruit. But it has so much depth and potential when you match it with food. It’s adaptable.’ Dave Cushley, Prestonfield House
‘Chianti Classico should be joyous with lovely red fruits – easy drinking. These were tough, green, volatile. Deeply disappointing.’ Victoria Sharples, St John Wines
‘These [richer, oakier] kinds of Chianti can be a bit overdone. I find them unbalanced. I think Chianti Classico is much better. Gran Seleziones are good wines, but for this price I’d go for Bordeaux, Brunello, or Nebbiolo.’ Janusz Sasiadek, Bottles & Battles
‘If you’re looking for a wine that’s fuller in body, and more expressive, then Gran Selezione suits you, but I think the majority of people are looking for normal Chianti, with medium body.’ Valentin Radosav, Gymkhana Restaurant
‘Gran Selezione has a style already, which is good. But I can’t see where in the UK on-trade these fit. You’re getting up to £60, and there are more interesting wines from Tuscany at the same price point.’ Andres Ituarte, team leader