ITALY: North-East – Trentino, Alto Adige & Friuli Venezia Giulia - White
2019 GOLD: 8 SILVER: 9 BRONZE: 4 COMMENDED: 10
2018 GOLD: 3 SILVER: 7 BRONZE: 5 COMMENDED: 8
Whites from the hillier bit of north-east Italy are like the unobtrusive party guest who seems shy and reserved to start with, but whose charm, wit and self-deprecation grow on you as the evening wears on. These are not, for the most part, show-off wines. But they’re interesting, versatile and sometimes very well priced.
We had a fine spread of medal-winning styles here, from Chardonnay to blends, Pinots Bianco to Grigio, and Gewürztraminer to Sauvignon Blanc. And throughout most of them was what makes this region so attractive to our tasters – a cheerful, light-footed freshness.
Oddly (some might say mistakenly), we didn’t have a sub-£10 Pinot Grigio on our Gold List, but our tasters were genuinely stimulated by what they found around the £15 mark. It’s proof of what this much-maligned grape is capable of when treated with love and attention rather than run into the ground. There were some very good Silvers at the more affordable end of things, too.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘A couple of the Pinot Grigios really stood out with more personality: some elegance, some salinity and points of interest.’ James Fryer, Woodhead 17
‘They’re breaking out of the mould. You have to have a second look at these, because they’ll fit into a place you thought they didn’t fit before.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘There was an incredible range of styles in the Pinot Grigio flight: some fresh, green and crisp; at the other end complex wines that really surprised me. It’s not what I expected, the flight blew me away.’ Jim Bass, Scarlet Hotel
‘The most expensive [Pinot Grigio] stood out in terms of quality and ageing, and freshness. But even the entry-level ones were pretty attractive. Overall, producers of Pinot Grigio have improved.’ Tomasz Kuszneruk, Pavilion Wine
‘The cheaper wines were like house Pinot Grigio: light, easy-drinking. At the more expensive end they were aged in oak, smoky, close to a Meursault or Puligny in style.’ Clément Loubeyre, The Cross Kenilworth
‘The value here is when you get to the higher price points – there were really characterful wines in there. What I liked was this lovely texture and depth that you could happily sit with throughout a meal and still find interesting.’ Hamish Anderson, team leader