Italy: Sicily & Sardinia - Red
2019 GOLD: 9 SILVER: 5 BRONZE: 7 COMMENDED: 18
2018 GOLD: 3 SILVER: 10 BRONZE: 10 COMMENDED: 20
Blimey, we got a big entry here. Huge. Probably not unconnected to the fact that as Italy’s prices head northwards with the relentlessness of a banker’s bonus, this is one of the few parts of the country capable of producing wines at prices that most venues can still actually afford.
And they are able to do it, too. We saw a record number of Gold medals here this year, nicely stretched from pub level all the way up to Michelin-star, from juicy Nero d’Avolas to spicy Cannonaus and volcanic Etna Rossos.
That’s the good news. The bad news is that our teams had to work pretty hard to get there. There’s still a lot of crap wine in Italy’s islands, and weeding it out was a tough afternoon’s work for our teams. It explains why some of the feedback (below) is more negative than you might expect, given the high medal count.
In short, pick with care. Or do yourself a favour and use these results. Your palate will thank you for it.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Overall quite disappointing, and I’m a quarter Sicilian! Outside of working in the trade, customers only know Sicily in terms of Nero d’Avola.’ Michael Fiducia, The Royal Automobile Club
‘I really enjoyed the flight. Very clean winemaking at the entry level, delivering good value. Very level in the mid-range especially from Sicily, where they really showcase an alternative to French Pinot Noirs. At the top end they were really good, but the prices were a bit off the scale.’ Mattia Mazzi, The River Cafe
‘A bit disappointing. There were some nice examples, but most were funky, unclean.’ Adam Michocki, The Glasshouse
‘Nero d’Avolas are pizza wines. I haven’t seen a lot of wines that for me would venture out of the classic Mediterranean dining category, and these didn’t promise to get them there soon – unlike Nerello Mascalese for example.’ Jan Konetzki, team leader
‘I was expecting more really well-priced, easy-drinking, quality reds. Some tried too hard: over-extracted. A real mixed bag.’ Charlie Young, team leader
‘The prices at the top end don’t stand up in the international market.’ Tobias Gorn, Boisdale Restaurants
‘Nero d’Avola is similar style to Beaujolais but a bit more muscular. Easy-drinking summer wines, though at the more expensive end you get that spice, earth, charcuterie flavours. The value was below £7 and over £20.’ Emanuel Pesqueira, consultant