Italy: South - Red
2019 GOLD: 7 SILVER: 7 BRONZE: 9 COMMENDED: 9
2018 GOLD: 2 SILVER: 13 BRONZE: 3 COMMENDED: 12
This is the classic Forrest-Gump-box-of-chocolates flight. You just never know what you’re going to get.
Some tasters found spiciness and verve, others found jam. Some found signs of improvement, others felt that the heel and sole of Italy were still stuck somewhere around the millennium.
Since the reactions from the teams at the second round of tasting were significantly more positive than those in the early stages of the competition, it suggests that once the badly made or unbalanced wines have been weeded out, there’s some pretty good stuff being made down here. You just have to work hard to find it.
We put together a really strong section of our wine list here, with wines at all the key price points from £8 to £18 and one what-the-hell show-off wine at the hand-sell end of things.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘They either make it right, or they don’t. There were a lot of faults here. But when they were well made they were very enjoyable: unique, with very elegant fruit character.’ Savvas Symeonidis, Gymkhana Restaurant
‘Italy should give you generosity of Mediterranean sunshine, and good value, and some distinctive, well-known varieties, but I thought these were baked and sweet. Southern Italy should be an easy sell, but too many of these didn’t have the balance between freshness and ripe fruit.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘I was expecting rounded, richer wines, but some of these were quite harsh, and in terms of value the prices were all over the shop. Somewhere like Languedoc would be a better bet.’ Harry Ballmann, Wiltons
‘I found what I was expecting – powerful, fruity wines with some tannins. Some were good value for money, and most were practical and approachable in terms of price. If it was up to me I’d add some to the list.’ Roberto Sanchez, Sexy Fish
‘There are some good cooperatives in the south, and they’re becoming more individual, and better for wine lists. These were beginning to get up to some serious site-specific wines.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘When we think of southern Italian reds we think of inexpensive wines and simple country pleasures, like eating salami with your feet in the grass. That’s at £6 or £7 a bottle. When it gets to £15 or £20, it’s just strangling the life out of them.’ Nigel Lister, team leader
‘There were a lot of people here aiming at a more serious style, and it feels like old-style winemaking, like something people were doing 10 or 15 years ago. No one has found ways to bring some elegance to southern Italy.’ Hamish Anderson, team leader