Italy: North-West - Red, including Barolo & Barbaresco
2019 GOLD: 11 SILVER: 10 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 14
2018 GOLD: 10 SILVER: 14 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 12
The North-West Reds category of the Sommelier Wine Awards is in with a shout for being one of the most interesting and dynamic of the whole competition. For many years, it was heavily dominated by the big hitters of Barolo and Barbaresco – sometimes with wines that were years away from being ready to drink.
But more recently we’ve seen significant changes – and all for the better. Those two A-list regions, for instance, are doing a great job of producing wines that have both longevity for the future and drinkability now, and they’re being backed up big time by other areas and/or grape varieties, too.
This year’s record haul of 11 Golds was typical: a string of great Nebbiolos, some astonishingly good (and often well-priced) Barberas to act as a base, and some majestic wines from Barolo and Barbaresco to top things off. The latter were not cheap (in fact sometimes they were very expensive), but they were seen by our judges as fine-wine counterparts to Bordeaux and Burgundy. And viewed in that light they deliver very well.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘[The Nebbiolos had] structure, but some were quite floral, which makes them easy drinking, too. These are definitely food wines. Instead of Barolo for £300 you can drink something more palatable like this. Some of the best wines we’ve tried.’ Sonal Clare, Purnell’s Restaurant
‘The cheaper Barberas showed much better than the more expensive ones. A lot of modern winemaking and use of oak. You don’t really need this over-extraction.’ Ieva Markaityte, Portuguese Concepts
‘Barolo is increasingly popular – after Bordeaux, it’s the most popular. And it deserves to be.’ Carlos Ferreira, team leader
‘Nebbiolo is important to list, as people recognise the grape, and it’s good with food, too.’ Julien Sahut, Sexy Fish
‘Barbera is a discovery for a lot of people still. But when it’s made in the lighter style it can be a good replacement for Pinot Noir. In the last five or six years I’ve started looking at it seriously.’ Andre Luis Martins, Cavalry & Guards Club
‘Styles of Barolo have diversified – rich and powerful versus light and refined. There are different styles for different palates.’ Diana Rollan, D&D
‘I wish there were more [Barbarescos] that are ready to drink now.’ Ieva Markaityte, Portuguese Concepts
‘Some fantastic wines in the Barbera flight. Real elegance and real finesse.’ Charlie Carter, Ten Green Bottles