Portugal: Red, Rest of Portugal
2019 GOLD: 3 SILVER: 6 BRONZE: 4 COMMENDED: 16
2018 GOLD: 3 SILVER: 4 BRONZE: 7 COMMENDED: 9
Given there were multiple flights of these, it’s surprising how consistent the feedback from our tasters was. To sum it up in eight words: overripe, over-extracted, over-oaked and over here.
It was all rather disappointing – particularly after last year’s high medal count and stellar feedback. Our tasters would, for sure, have expected better things from the Dao, at least.
They did have something of a saving grace, since they were pretty cheap for the most part – though not conclusively so. Even at £35 on a list, unknown regions like this would probably still be a hand sell.
So, not great, really. The winemakers need to take their foot off the flavour accelerator, ditch their fetish for new oak and let the wines glide along more quietly and with less effort.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘I was surprised with so many ripe full-bodied wines that were pleasantly drinkable. On the whole quite joyous, full-bodied wines.’
Joshua Castle, Noble Rot
‘A lot of confected “winemakers’ wines”, rather than terroir-imprinted – too much oak intervention and extraction. But some good value-for-money wines.’
Tanguy Martin, New Street Warehouse
‘We all had very different views on what to expect. Overall: rustic character, big tannins, some extraction, very ripe, fairly powerful.’
Ross Antonelli, Hawksmoor Borough
‘We don’t sell many. In terms of customers, it’s not something they’re very knowledgeable about. The flight was hit and miss, it wasn’t high quality.’
Daniel Nuttall, Adam’s Restaurant
‘The ripe fruit and oaky notes really overpowered the more craggy Atlantic characteristics I would expect, though they all performed well for the money.’
Jan Konetzki, team leader
‘At the lower price range there was a challenge to smooth the tannins and mask the high alcohol. At the very high price range the wines were more complex but too young. In the mid-range they had a balance between smoothness of tannins, integration of alcohol and the depth of flavour you’d expect.’
Savvas Symeonidis, Gymkhana Restaurant