Spain: Rioja – Reserva & Gran Reserva
2019 GOLD: 3 SILVER: 8 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 14
2018 GOLD: 3 SILVER: 10 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 9
Our tasters could discuss the concept of age and Rioja for weeks and not reach any conclusions. Some like their wines fresher and more youthful (even the reservas), others are fans of the older-style oxidative wines with lots of (old) barrel age.
If we had to conduct a straw poll, we’d say that, in general, there were more fans of ‘youth and modernity’ than there were of ‘age and tradition’. So it was interesting that our only reserva Gold this year went to the oldest wine in the category. The Tarón Reserva was a 2008 – significantly older than even the oldest gran reserva. What do we learn from that? Don’t ask us, squire, we only work here…
The feedback for this category was, broadly speaking, a lot more positive than it was for the crianzas, in particular. And while only two Gold-Listed wines was a bit disappointing, it wasn’t far off the norm, while the big bulge of Silvers suggests that there’s still plenty of good stuff lurking around the banks of the Ebro for those who have the patience to look for it.
Certainly the pricing isn’t bad: £12 for a reserva is decent, while just £3 more seems to get you into gran reserva territory, with an extra couple of years in barrel and bottle.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘These used to be too muscular, but there’s less of that, and they’re more food-friendly.’ Quentin Loisel, Restaurant Sat Bains
‘There was quite a mixture of styles here. The oak treatment makes a big difference, and for me the wines can feel a bit too manipulated. The best were all of a similar style: savoury, with nice tannins and big structure, which is what people look for.’ Olivier Gasselin, Hakkasan
‘The gran reservas are like policeman – they get younger every year. They don’t taste like gran reservas – it should have oak, ripe fruit, but it should be soft on the palate, a burst of flavour and a very long finish.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘Rioja that is flavoured with a lot of American oak might not be our preference, but we all acknowledge that there’s a place for them on a wine list. There were modern wines here in the sense that they used French oak, but they’re still big, chunky wines.’ Hamish Anderson, team leader
‘Those [reservas] with American oak had that sweet spice that gives them typicity. But these are definitely moving towards what the market is asking for, with more freshness and a less rustic style.’ Marco Marcuzzo, Aster Restaurant
‘The gran reservas seem more vibrant. A lot more acidity and overall freshness compared to the normal cigar box and earthy notes. It’s a welcome change.’ Timothy Connor, Heddon Street Kitchen