English Sparkling Wine
Our tasters’ attitude to English wine has shifted over the years. When we first started to get sizeable numbers entered into SWA there was an almost giddy excitement at how good they were and, probably, too many medals. Now, English fizz is well established, its novelty value has worn off and our teams judge it far more critically.
It is this, rather than any flattening off in quality, that explains the reason why the category has settled where it has – 16-18 medals, with four or five places on the Gold List, for each of the past four years.
Most of the entries were based on champagne grape blends, but it was good to see some variety in the winners, with some English grapes and different production methods, such as Charmat-method, or (as in one of Fox & Fox’s two Golds) a Meunier blanc de noir.
From The Tasting Teams
‘There were less of the floral, herbal, Bacchus-led wines. These had much more autolytic characters, more like champagne in style.’ Nigel Lister, St. Swithins Wine Shippers
‘The quality was very high, and in some cases it was surprisingly good value. Oddly, some of the more well-priced wines seemed to show better than the more expensive wines.’ Tim Smith, Winesurfer Consulting
‘This was a good flight. Overall, I was very happy with the quality, from the first price tag to the very last.’ Agostinho Leite, Bistrot Pierre at The Royal William Yard
‘It’s selling more and more when compared with champagne, and it doesn’t need to be a hand-sell anymore. People recognise brands like Nyetimber and Chapel Down.’ Andre Luis Martins, Cavalry and Guards Club
‘We list a couple at our restaurants – one white and one rosé – but they are more expensive than the house champagne. It doesn’t sell well.’ Guillaume Mahaut, ETM Group
‘Even under £20 you’ll find good quality – from Devon, to Sussex, to Oxfordshire.’ Markus Dilger, Dilger Sommelier Selection
‘There were a couple of sparkling wines here that could be on any great wine list.’ Emanuel Pesqueira, Edwardian Hotels London
‘English sparkling is much more present on all wine lists; it’s on the sommelier’s mind now.’ Riccardo Guzzardo, Hakkasan Mayfair