Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Bordeaux-Style Blends - Chile
Chile had quite a good year in SWA 2020, with the only exception, oddly, being the one category where you’d expect it to do rather well: Bordeaux reds.
Well-priced Cabs and Merlots is, of course, where the country has made its name over the past 30 years, but feedback from the tasters was mixed. Most enjoyed the quality of fruit that they could see in the wines, but there was a consistent criticism that it was being smothered by over-enthusiastic winemaking. Too much oak and too much extraction suggests that quite a few winemakers are following the USA model, which might make sense commercially but isn’t going to win them too many friends in SWA.
Whereas last year we had three Golds under £10, some good mid-price wines and a classy trade-up, this year’s pickings were far thinner on the ground.
Two observations: firstly, Maipo needs to do better. Its reputation as top dog for Cab is rarely demonstrated in SWA. Secondly, where were all the good cheap wines? When even Chile finds it hard to knock out good wines under a tenner we know we’re in trouble.
From The Tasting Teams
‘The best had good fruit concentration balanced with acid. It’s so hot in Chile, so sometimes when they have good fruit it is picked underripe to avoid going too far the other way.’ Jade Koch, team leader
‘There was really good ripe fruit, resulting in lovely complex and elegant wines. The £10-£15 mark was really good value for money.’ Daniel Eriksen, Anglian Country Inns
‘That was uninspiring. Quite a few were really disjointed, some were heavily oaked. They were more winemakers’ wines than terroir wines.’ Olivier Gasselin, OenoTrade
‘Chile tends to over deliver on fruit concentration, and we saw a really interesting uplift in the middle price bracket, with concentration and typicity. There was that pyrazine, pastille element, but without it being cloying or confected.’ Claire Love, Loves Consultancy
‘Overall, the value for money was there and the quality of fruit was there, but the winemaking was tricky. Some had too much oak and extraction. They didn’t need to try so hard.’ Raphael Thierry, consultant
‘There’s great potential from Chile, especially in Cabernet Sauvignon. I would’ve liked to see more.’ Valentin Radosav, Gymkhana Restaurant London
‘I preferred Colchagua here. I think there was probably better winemaking from Colchagua than Maipo.’ Salvatore Russo, The Hippodrome Casino
‘People don’t want ripe, but they want concentration. Chile tends to be more vibrant. It ticks a lot of boxes, and there’s definitely a place for these.’ Timothy Connor, Heddon Street Kitchen