Malbec
There’s no doubt at all that Malbec – specifically Mendozan Malbec – is up there with Kiwi Sauvignon and Prosecco as one of the wine world’s power brands. Customers know it, look for it, and order it (uncritically) with confidence.
And the best wines here showed why: juicy fruit, just enough tannic bite and a gentle lift of high-altitude acidity. The pricing was pretty good too. What’s not to like?
Unfortunately, there are still a lot of wines from Mendoza that don’t match this profile. The big problems are (in no particular order) over-extraction, over-sweetness and over-oaking. It was more of a factor as the wines went up through the price points. We had a fair few entries in the £15+ price area, but not many of them picked up top medals.
Wineries, said our tasters, need to have the confidence to let the fruit do its thing and not overwork it.
In fact, one of the interesting factors of this section of SWA seems to be the growing success of Malbec outside Argentina. Vistamar’s Chilean example was exceptional value, while Left Field’s Hawke’s Bay version was a huge hit with the judges. Both made it onto our Gold List. Watch this space…
From The Tasting Teams
‘They need to stop making wine for a particular type of person. Just show the nuances of your vineyards and your grapes.’ Stephanie Robertson, RA Group
‘You’d need to have a dedicated sommelier to recommend the more expensive wines. An average guest would expect Malbec from Argentina to be between £30 and £60 on a list.’ Anja Breit, abWINEconsulting
‘By the time the more expensive wines get on a list, they will be £80. I think you have to be a big Malbec-lover for that.’ Nelio Pinto, Candlesticks
‘I was really disappointed. There was a whole trend of Pinot-like Malbec, and in the middle range, some were quite hot and sweet – too fleshy and cloying.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘[The Left Field] was textural and interesting. It gave a kick to the overall life of the Malbec – clean and very precise. It sounds weird, but you can detect the Kiwi personality of the wine there.’ Filippo Pastorini, consultant
‘The trick with Malbec is not overpowering the fruit and trying to make it bigger than it is. You want that extra layer, but you don’t want big tannins.’ Dave Cushley, Prestonfield House
‘I like the relaxed wines, with an elegance and suppleness to them – the ones that allow the fruit to come through.’ Nigel Lister, St. Swithins Wine Shippers
‘[The Left Field Malbec] screams of both the place of the grape – really brilliant.’ Jade Koch, consultant
‘Regionality doesn’t really matter here – it’s Mendoza Malbec, sadly. I’ll have three on the list between £60 and £90, so I can easily move between one price or another.’ Tanguy Martin, Blandford Compoir