Hungary
The number of Golds might not have changed much over the past few years, but the number of entries and medals is growing nicely here. Make no mistake, Hungary is starting to build some serious momentum in SWA.
The whites were the most successful style again this year, with our tasters enjoying the variety of Furmints on offer – from brisk and mineral through to richer and oakier, though there seemed to be an ‘oak ceiling’ after which the grape lost its character and just became a vehicle for the wood. Those entries rarely got past the first round of judging – something the country’s winemakers need to be wary of.
But though our only two Golds were both Furmints, the story here this year, perhaps, was the reds. Typically, they are very much the poor relation to their white counterparts, but ten medals (six of them Silver) this year was a big step up, and suggests that we could be in for a few Golds next year. Definitely a country to watch.
From The Tasting Teams
‘The reds were great. A varied array of grape varieties, styles and winemaking, and they were value-oriented as well.’ Andres Ituarte, team leader
‘I love Hungarian whites. I love the refreshing finish, the fresh notes in general, but also the buttery, creamier styles. They’re great to match with food throughout a meal, from aperitif to the end.’ Chiara Sieni, MM Grocery
‘There’s great value for money in these reds. I’m in a brasserie, and I’d find a place for them there. But they’re wines that needs to be introduced by someone.’ Diego Carballido, Bar Boulud – Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park
‘The higher up in price we went, the use of oak became too much and was extracted, bitter, unbalanced. Our last white was £30, and honestly the first two at £10 give you more.’ Elena Serban, Heritage Restaurant
‘Around £11–£13 there were some really good options, with complexity and balance. They’re always tough sells by the bottle, but for places with varied by-the-glass offerings they’re quite approachable.’ Sam Weatherill, Etch. by Steven Edwards
‘The lower-priced whites were great: fresh, floral and very interesting, but also easy to drink. They would work in any environment, from fine dining to a pub.’ Filippo Pastorini, consultant
‘A complex and interesting flight. Hungary is a large country, and there’s a massive range of styles. I think we’re just scratching the surface.’ Chris Delalonde MS, The Dorchester