North-East - Red
(Veneto, including Amarone & Valpolicella)
Another good year for north-east Italy in SWA saw our teams able to put together a beautifully balanced range of reds here, from a well-priced Veronese rosso and sub-£10 Valpol, laddering right the way up to buy-it-if-you-dare Amarones over £70.
The latter flight were consistently good, and since the biggest reason for failure here was wines being too young, it’s no surprise that two of our three Golds were from 2013. If you like powerful coffee-and-chocolate wines, there’s plenty for you here.
The Valpolicellas garnered much more mixed feedback – mostly due to huge stylistic differences. There were wines from barely to heavily oaked, off-dry to dry, and ripe and plush to green-tinged. So decide what style you want and read the tasting notes with care.
From The Tasting Teams
‘The Amarone flight was like a journey, with various expressions that were still all quite clearly Amarone, but showed themselves differently between producers.’ Gary Newborough, The Aristologist
‘My only concern for the Valpolicellas was about the residual sugar. These wines are supposed to be dry, and they weren’t here. More medium-dry.’ Maria Cristina Francescon, Enoteca Sorso di Vino
‘About 90% of the Veneto reds would fit very well on our wine list, from the lower end right to the higher end. Our guests would go straight to these.’ Charlie Cockaday, Gravetye Manor
‘You expect certain things from Valpol – high alcohol, rich and warming plum notes – but I wasn’t expecting them to be herbaceous and green, which some were.’ Harry Ballmann, Folie
‘I’m usually not a big fan of Valpolicella, but there was typicity here, and overall it was a nice flight.’ José Hernandez, Hakkasan
‘You could find things at a lower price point for gastro pubs or casual restaurants, so that even people who don’t want to spend too much can still enjoy a good wine.’ Dario Barbato, Individual Restaurants
‘The range of different styles is the beauty of Valpolicella. Like it or not, that darkness, that opulence, and the earthiness or spiciness were there.’ Diana Rollan, D&D London
‘Veneto reds can sometimes be undervalued. They have decent structure and are food-friendly, and the prices are practical too.’ Jan Van Heesvelde, L’Enclume
‘We found the notes we were looking for: coffee, chocolate and dried fruit. Amarone continues to be one of the best from the north of Italy.’ Elisa Soggia, Trivet
‘From Valpolicella you want fruitiness and easy tannins – a soft, easy-going wine.’ Janusz Pawel Sasiadek, Mercato Metropolitano