White (including Vinho Verde)
Quietly, almost self-deprecatingly, Portugal’s whites are growing to become a really interesting part of SWA. We used to be happy with one or two Golds, but over the past few years we’ve begun to find real strength in depth here, and this year’s performance further advanced such a hypothesis. The figures were Portuguese brancos’ best yet.
Interestingly, the success this year was achieved with a fairly average performance from the white style you would expect to be the driving force: Vinho Verde.
Fortunately, the quiet revolution, it seems, is one that runs across the whole country, with better winemaking in places like Palmela, Dão and the Alentejo coming to the rescue. The best entries from here allowed the different (usually indigenous) grapes to express themselves, which in most cases meant ‘without too much distracting oak’.
Fresh, well-priced and individual, these should be on every on-trade wine buyer’s ‘to taste’ list.
From The Tasting Teams
‘Precise winemaking is really taking effect in Portugal. Very consistent, good freshness, and the fruit was really expressing itself.’ Andre Luis Martins, team leader
‘I know there’s incredible quality coming from Vinho Verde at great prices, but our flight mostly didn’t reflect that.’ Tim Smith, Winesurfer Consulting
‘Some really good Portuguese whites, and a lot of them were new to me. There’s now a wide opportunity to explore the wines of Portugal and experience new aromas and flavours.’ Gary Newborough, The Aristologist
‘There’s very good value to be had at the lower end of the market, although there’s opportunity and potential at the higher prices too. You get a lot of wine for your money at £20.’ Victoria Sharples, St John Restaurant Group
‘At their best these have freshness and acidity. It’s easy to recommend them for fish and chips in a pub, or in a nice restaurant with prawns. They’re very versatile for food pairing, from pubs to Michelin-starred restaurants.’ Dario Barbato, Individual Restaurants
‘The cheaper Vinho Verdes had that vibrancy and zing. The expensive wines here weren’t in any way twice as good.’ Martin Lam, team leader
‘There was a lot of variety here, and they were really good, with lots of acidity. The prices started low and stayed pretty low too. There’s lots of quality at the lower end of the market.’ Jade Koch, team leader
‘Great diversity, and so much value for money.’ Jan Van Heesvelde, L’Enclume